Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've been following an eBay auction on a manual R30 (link)

It's been sitting below reserve for days after two previous listings with no bids. Same car was listed by a different seller last time.

Now all of a sudden, the bid history shows three bids from the same bidder, who has taken the price from $350 to $500.

e***f( 0 ) AU $500.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:30 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $450.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:18 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $400.00 26-Mar-10 13:16:51 AEDST

w***e( 0 ) AU $350.00 24-Mar-10 21:13:44 AEDST

I'm not bidding so this is just academic. But am I right to assume this is dodgy?

JohnH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313671-dodgy-ebay-bidding/
Share on other sites

Not necessarily dodgy. What it means is that e***f has entered a reasonably high maximum bid...of say $1000 (for example). They've become the highest bidder at $400, overtaking the previous high bid of $350. But then someone else came along and bid (for example) $440 on it, which was immediately and automatically overtaken by e***f because his maximum bid was higher than $440. Then ANOTHER user (or possibly the same one given the close timestamps) has come along and bit $490 (for example) on it, which was immediately and automatically taken over by e***f's maximum bid again.

Where it can be dodgy, is that the seller may be using another account to push e***f closer to his maximum bid. But e***f is not necessarily dodgy himself/herself.

overtaking the previous high bid of $350. But then someone else came along and bid (for example) $440 on it, which was immediately and automatically overtaken by e***f because his maximum bid was higher than $440.

So the bidding system doesn't display the intervening bids?

Seems legit...

If reserve is $500, which I think it was if it is the car I am think of, then the seller could have got a mate to bid up to $1 less than the reserve to push the price up, but probably it would have been one buy the buyer at $500 exactly... for it to have a reserve of $580 is unlikely, so it was probably 2 genuine buyers...

Cheers,

Darryl

check these ones out too:

..

ebay r30 (3)

there are more for sale now than i have ever seen in my life...

pity none are quality though!

I thought the hatch would catch your attention, with all those turbo bits and an anniversary badge! 

JH

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

I've been following an eBay auction on a manual R30 (link)

It's been sitting below reserve for days after two previous listings with no bids. Same car was listed by a different seller last time.

Now all of a sudden, the bid history shows three bids from the same bidder, who has taken the price from $350 to $500.

e***f( 0 ) AU $500.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:30 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $450.00 26-Mar-10 13:17:18 AEDST

e***f( 0 ) AU $400.00 26-Mar-10 13:16:51 AEDST

w***e( 0 ) AU $350.00 24-Mar-10 21:13:44 AEDST

I'm not bidding so this is just academic. But am I right to assume this is dodgy?

JohnH

It could also mean that the seller wanted at least $500 for it, so got a mate (w***e) to bid in small increments to up the bid to $500. It doesn't help that the seller can see (for example, not saying this happened here) that e***f put in an opening bid, then added another bid in the history. That's a green light for the seller to get some shill bidding going on.

The thing with ebay is, that you have to expect that the item will sit near its starting price right up till the last few hours before it ends.

If its is bid up alot before then, then the bidders are either stupid (new ebay bidders make this mistake) and must have it and bid early, or something dodgy is going on.

If you want to win something cheaply, you try not to bid until the last minutes, otherwise your just driving the price up in the days prior and end up paying more. And if your a seller, start the item off near what you want for it.

The thing with ebay is, that you have to expect that the item will sit near its starting price right up till the last few hours before it ends.

If its is bid up alot before then, then the bidders are either stupid (new ebay bidders make this mistake) and must have it and bid early, or something dodgy is going on.

If you want to win something cheaply, you try not to bid until the last minutes, otherwise your just driving the price up in the days prior and end up paying more. And if your a seller, start the item off near what you want for it.

Hi,

Thanks very much for the info. I'd never heard the term 'shill bidding' and, being new to eBay (and also slightly stupid!), have bid way too early on items. A real life auction takes place in only a few minutes. These 5, 7 and 10 day auctions are a bit of a trap for beginners. (EBay has a help page on shill bidding here.)

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...