Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As in topic wanting to see what jap exhusts you guys are running for r33 that are relatively quiet and I dont mean quiet as in stock but not ridicoulously loud so prob up to 95db as I dont want to go purchase one then to find its pretty much the same level as the one I got now. epas are on the rise these days and cant be bothered going back to stock all the time

Yeah I was looking at the trust since people are saying the kakimoto and stuff is pretty much like stock, how do you find the trust quiet enough to not get as much attention?

Have the Trust PEII & recon you would like it. Nice on idle, definitely not like stock but not stupidly loud...

Then as you really start to rev it up she goes wild! From what I have heard one of the more sedate jap exhausts

I've got a 3" Blitz Nur exhaust. I won't recommend it for your purposes. Has a fair bit of low rpm noise. I love it on full noise but have always considered changing for something with a little bit less noise when daudling around.

Luke

yeah might give it a go, I love the loudness of my exhust at the moment and the drone donest bother me just cbf coppin epa and having to take turbos ecus injectors etc

i have a 3.5 bee-r cat back, and it is loud (came with the car when i bought it). drone heaps. dont get it even look into it. i want to downsize or switch exhuast to something that produces a more RB burble.

you are from melb i see. i'd be happy to give you a ride if we happen to be at a meet sometime. although there are a lot of guys running the trust catback so you wouldnt have too much trouble finding a car to listen to

Ive got a 3" stainless X-Force exhaust with the bellmouth front pipe and its really good.

Gives really good results and sounds good, in no way too loud. im very tempted to put a decat pipe in actually give it a bit more grunt.

And yes im aware its not a Jap exhaust but still worth checking out, can hear the turbo spooling waaaay more now too sounds good as.

Edited by Rav3nNZ

i had a Jasma / 5 zigen 3.5" cat back & front pipe (with a bellmouth dump) on my previous 33, was very quiet down low but gave a nice scream in the higher rev range. Measured 93db @ 3500 rpm (from when i went through pits for inspection)

notice this with a lot of the Jasma exhausts that the cars come over with from Japan, they're not overly loud.

ive got a 3inch 'drift' exhaust, stainless steel from the dum, but running stock cat.. i personally think its loud, but cops dont notice my car so it must be qiuet.

i put in the silencer/resinator/restrictor in the tip of the canon when i want a qiuete drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...