Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, giving the car a massive going over and it's time for the engine bay.

problem is, i'm a noob when it comes to engines, and i don't know what all the bits and pieces are. So when i started cleaning yday i was worried about pretty much everything getting wet :down:

Which is silly, because i drive the bloody thing in the rain, and i know it gets wet in there...

anyways, i've got a pic that i hope will help

RIMG0201.jpg

stole this from a for sale thread, hope the owner doesn't mind

1. Back wall/drivers side, ok to spray there? (there's some big round thing mounted on the wall)

2. back wall/passenger side. There is a silver box thing there (abs?) that doesn't look like would want to get wet

3. down side of engine and side of driver's side strut tower... a lot of plugs/lines etc there

4. Back wall/middle - again, quite a bit of electronics back there... i'm guess leave that back wall middle section?

5. Down turbo side of engine, where the power steering fluid bottle is

6. Fan area

7. Front of engine

Obviously i won't be going near the battery area, and the headlights.

From the numbers, what should i be leaving well alone and what is ok to spray?

Or are there really only a few things that should be covered up?

cheers,

daniel

all around the edges is fine to spray... put a plastic bag over your afm and your air filter..

take the engine cover off... do not spray the top of the engine... from the manifolds down you can.

just do the top with spray and wipe and a rag..

then cover the whole thing with silicon spray or tyre shine and wipe it off.... this will give it a nice sheen.. but more importantly... will make everything real easy to clean next time.. and the time after that, and the time after that.

keep your hoses nicley sheened and it will look good no matter how filthy it actually is.. faded hoses are the worst.

I'd cover the top of the engine, where the coils are, with a plastic bag, water can settle here around the spark plug holes and you def don't want this.

Take the engine cover off (clean it while he's off :down:) then put a big bin liner or similar over the cam covers and in between, stuff your air intake with a towel/rag then everything else should be good to go, cos as you say, shit does get pretty wet in there when your driving along on a rainy day...

Important though, make sure your car is left to thoroughly dry after, and is stone cold when you clean it.

If the engine is hot, and you spray cold water on it, things can damage, easily

Agree with Hamish & Craig.

1) Degreaser &/or Armorall

2) Cotton rag &/or Microfibre

3) Chopsticks - Japanese type with pointed end & blunt end to poke around with the rag &/or Cotton Buds

Great stress-reliever after a shitty week.

If you are going to use Degreaser- word of warning,This stuff is Highly flammable. Only a few weeks ago I took my daily for a degrease to one of those carlovers type places.I pulled in to the wash bay and lifted the hood to let it cool down for a few minutes.After this I started spraying degreaser in selective areas.Then some of the degreaser must have dripped onto the exhaust manifold and BOOM !! Up in flames...First reaction SHIT !!! , Grabbed my wallet ,panicking searching for a coin to shove into the slot to activate the pressure cleaner. Could have filed my nails while I waited for it to start with trigger on full,Meanwhile 3 foot flames have totally engulfed the engine bay.Finally out comes the water pressure and flame dies...Go toi start car...No problem whatsoever, As it was only the degreaser burning and nothing else even got touched...

Dont repeat my lucky error

Make sure exhaust area is cold before spraying this stuff

I've cleaned plenty of R33 & R34 engine bays while working at a RAW. We used a product called Reb Baron degreaser. Sprayed the entire bay, left it for 5 minutes and then used a high pressure sprayer to remove it. I did the entire bay without covering anything and never had a problem.

I also did this to my personal R33 once every few months and never had a problem in 5 years. After it dries I used either Amoral or silicon spray on any of the plastic parts, always came up looking great.

yeah as above post I laways spray mine at the car wash with degreaser then hi pressure it off. Just cover the air filter or if u got stock airbox make sure the snorkel is dry, just dont get carried away and stand there for 10min spraying thats when youll cause problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...