Jump to content
SAU Community

Cleaning R34 Engine Bay - What Not To Spray?

SS8_Gohan
 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

ok, giving the car a massive going over and it's time for the engine bay.

problem is, i'm a noob when it comes to engines, and i don't know what all the bits and pieces are. So when i started cleaning yday i was worried about pretty much everything getting wet :down:

Which is silly, because i drive the bloody thing in the rain, and i know it gets wet in there...

anyways, i've got a pic that i hope will help

RIMG0201.jpg

stole this from a for sale thread, hope the owner doesn't mind

1. Back wall/drivers side, ok to spray there? (there's some big round thing mounted on the wall)

2. back wall/passenger side. There is a silver box thing there (abs?) that doesn't look like would want to get wet

3. down side of engine and side of driver's side strut tower... a lot of plugs/lines etc there

4. Back wall/middle - again, quite a bit of electronics back there... i'm guess leave that back wall middle section?

5. Down turbo side of engine, where the power steering fluid bottle is

6. Fan area

7. Front of engine

Obviously i won't be going near the battery area, and the headlights.

From the numbers, what should i be leaving well alone and what is ok to spray?

Or are there really only a few things that should be covered up?

cheers,

daniel

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

all around the edges is fine to spray... put a plastic bag over your afm and your air filter..

take the engine cover off... do not spray the top of the engine... from the manifolds down you can.

just do the top with spray and wipe and a rag..

then cover the whole thing with silicon spray or tyre shine and wipe it off.... this will give it a nice sheen.. but more importantly... will make everything real easy to clean next time.. and the time after that, and the time after that.

keep your hoses nicley sheened and it will look good no matter how filthy it actually is.. faded hoses are the worst.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

I'd cover the top of the engine, where the coils are, with a plastic bag, water can settle here around the spark plug holes and you def don't want this.

Take the engine cover off (clean it while he's off :down:) then put a big bin liner or similar over the cam covers and in between, stuff your air intake with a towel/rag then everything else should be good to go, cos as you say, shit does get pretty wet in there when your driving along on a rainy day...

Important though, make sure your car is left to thoroughly dry after, and is stone cold when you clean it.

If the engine is hot, and you spray cold water on it, things can damage, easily

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Agree with Hamish & Craig.

1) Degreaser &/or Armorall

2) Cotton rag &/or Microfibre

3) Chopsticks - Japanese type with pointed end & blunt end to poke around with the rag &/or Cotton Buds

Great stress-reliever after a shitty week.

GTR-32U Mentor

GTR-32U

Posted
Posted

If you are going to use Degreaser- word of warning,This stuff is Highly flammable. Only a few weeks ago I took my daily for a degrease to one of those carlovers type places.I pulled in to the wash bay and lifted the hood to let it cool down for a few minutes.After this I started spraying degreaser in selective areas.Then some of the degreaser must have dripped onto the exhaust manifold and BOOM !! Up in flames...First reaction SHIT !!! , Grabbed my wallet ,panicking searching for a coin to shove into the slot to activate the pressure cleaner. Could have filed my nails while I waited for it to start with trigger on full,Meanwhile 3 foot flames have totally engulfed the engine bay.Finally out comes the water pressure and flame dies...Go toi start car...No problem whatsoever, As it was only the degreaser burning and nothing else even got touched...

Dont repeat my lucky error

Make sure exhaust area is cold before spraying this stuff

Priestley Rising Star

Priestley

Posted
Posted

I've cleaned plenty of R33 & R34 engine bays while working at a RAW. We used a product called Reb Baron degreaser. Sprayed the entire bay, left it for 5 minutes and then used a high pressure sprayer to remove it. I did the entire bay without covering anything and never had a problem.

I also did this to my personal R33 once every few months and never had a problem in 5 years. After it dries I used either Amoral or silicon spray on any of the plastic parts, always came up looking great.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

yeah as above post I laways spray mine at the car wash with degreaser then hi pressure it off. Just cover the air filter or if u got stock airbox make sure the snorkel is dry, just dont get carried away and stand there for 10min spraying thats when youll cause problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • GTSBoy
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Kinkstaah
      Valve clearance for RB25det series 2

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...