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They charge $1100+ for a tune because they're the only garage in Syd (or Aus as far as i know) that can actually flash oem v35 ecu's and adjust ignition, afr, rev limit, speed limit etc.

All the flash tuning software isn't cheap either. If they've got a Technosquare or Osiris or whatever and got the dealer package, it would have set them back a fair wedge.

My understanding is they have to remove the oem ecu, soak it in a solution to remove a chip, then replace or flash (or do something with it lol), pop it back on the pcb board, reinstall in car then chuck it on dyno and tune for your mods.

I've had my ECU reflashed with a Technosquare. All they had to do was plug the connector into the OBDII port, and fiddle around with the laptop to get the map onto the car.

Modern ECUs don't need any work on the hardware to update the firmware.

However, 20kw atw gain is damn optimistic.

Must be a downhill dyno, or they're talking about flywheel gains.

Instead of adding more power, why not clean up the handling? Sway bars are great bang-for buck mods.

Or give it a mild drop with some decent springs.

Will sway bars give me off the mark acceleration ? im not looking to go quick around the corners just a little bit extra off the take off

  • 2 weeks later...

No. Swaybars should have no effect on launch. Only cornering.

If standing start is your primary concern, shift weight to the rear and soften the rear suspension out. FM platform cars aren't fantastic for launching thanks to the weight distribution and rear geometry. Do you find yourself axle tramping when you launch? Making use of what power you've got might work out better than chasing more power. Outright power only really matters once you're rolling.

Another option (if you can find it for a reasonably cheap price) is to get a VLSD, and/or a 3.7:1 or 3.9:1 final drive ratio. I'm not sure what diff you have, but I found my VLSD to work reasonably well. I rarely ever did "single tyre fryers" with mine, anyway.

I've got a 3.9:1 final drive in my current diff (compared to the 3.5:1 in the stock setup), and my in-gear acceleration is a lot stronger. There is a sacrifice in top speed, cruising RPM, and fuel economy though.

No. Swaybars should have no effect on launch. Only cornering.

If standing start is your primary concern, shift weight to the rear and soften the rear suspension out. FM platform cars aren't fantastic for launching thanks to the weight distribution and rear geometry. Do you find yourself axle tramping when you launch? Making use of what power you've got might work out better than chasing more power. Outright power only really matters once you're rolling.

Another option (if you can find it for a reasonably cheap price) is to get a VLSD, and/or a 3.7:1 or 3.9:1 final drive ratio. I'm not sure what diff you have, but I found my VLSD to work reasonably well. I rarely ever did "single tyre fryers" with mine, anyway.

I've got a 3.9:1 final drive in my current diff (compared to the 3.5:1 in the stock setup), and my in-gear acceleration is a lot stronger. There is a sacrifice in top speed, cruising RPM, and fuel economy though.

sounds interesting i will look into it . Thanks

So, the factory ecu IS retuneable?

If so, it makes things interesting: my SC kit doesn't come with a ecu. Wondering if the VQ30DET computer is tuneable: at least it can handle forced induction, but AFAIK only autos were hooked up to it, which could make things difficult if it's looking for transmission signals...

Sorry to hijack: I need to know what my best solution is, and there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer. Also, being on the Gold Coast doesn't help: at this stage, I believe I'm limited to a Matt Spry tuned Haltec.

I don't think you want to try retrofitting a VQ30DET ECU. There are a slew of tuning options and it comes down to personal preferences and also tuners in your state. Some possibilities....

- Haltech Interceptor

- Haltech Platinum 350Z

- HKS F-Con

- Greddy E-manage Ultimate

- TurboXS UTEC

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