Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline Series 1 R33 Gts T Miss Firing Problem, Changed Coils, Checked Voltage At Coils ,checked Earths ?


Recommended Posts

ok so wat was wrong originally was i got a tune and got the boost wound up and then it started to missfire i also have after market ecu (link). it only missfired under full snap on throttle so i changed plugs a little bit better then still missfiring.so i bought some new coil packs from performance wise (yellow jackets) and put them in took it for drive and they break down straight away where is the standard coils didnt they reved out most of the time .the yellow jackets made it worse they were brand new coils i dont understand . so i checked earth wire at back of valley near number 6 cylinder it was fine . so i checked all plugs on coils the middle terminal on all of them had 12v and the two outside ones were earths so checked that wat do i do next ?

can someone please help me on wat to do u can also hear the stanard coils arching out when engine is idleing if that helps?

reguards dan.

whats the gap on the plugs? 0.7 to 0.8

check plugs on injectors (was my problem when had a misfire)

check wiring harness on coils

check ignitor amplifier -little box on back of coil pack cover ( http://www.scribd.com/doc/6654050/Nissan-S...3-Engine-Manual ) page EN 319

check plug on computer

go back to tuner and get him to chuck it back on the dyno and see what it is doing

a bit off flashing around the coils is normal but if you can hear it it may be a different story (try get it in a garage at night with all the lights turned off and have a look for large sparks and misfiring at the same time)

i have ngk .7 gapped i checked voltages and the two earths in all the coil plugs i cant get my head round it how do i check igniter box to see if its ok ? would it be my cas ?if earths and 12v is in each coil plug then that part of it should be right ???

  • 1 month later...
wat the new coils ? u sure .6 would fix ? isnt that a bit to small of a gap

Old post but still...

By 0.6 he is referring to the resistance of the coils (measured in ohms and should be 0.6 - 0.9ohms). Not an ideal way of testing as it will not show tiny cracks. Better off looking at the coils at night (with the valley cover off) and see for sparks or using electrical tape to tape the coil pack stem (that sits on top of spark plug) and see if that helps. If it does, then you need new coil packs.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...