Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

old oil stank of petrol and had about a litre too much in, bear in mind i run twin pumps and 1000cc sards. wont take long at 8.0.1 afr to do that.was changed after afr set and prior to dyno run,car was never driven with the contaminated oil in the motor

sounds very bad to me.....fuel is a rubbish lubriant, almost as bad as coolant :D

but assuming you changed it, most of it was removed (no oil cooler?), and the problem was fixed that may not be it.....you don't have the oil that just came out of it?

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

right guys a further development. looks like we have looking in the wrong place. i now suspect something has gone through the engine.from where i am not sure. below are pictures of the head on number 5 the one that spun and number 5 piston crown,, i was running a 1mm headgasket. question is whatever caused these marks would it be enoug on a 1mm gasket to jam the piston enough to cause the crank to hit the bearing momentarily?.

IMG_0651.jpg

IMG_0652.jpg

IMG_0649.jpg

IMG_0648.jpg

i have stripped the turbo, nothing wrong there?. had a look in the exhaust there is some very small shiny magnetic fragments?. any idea where something that could do this had got in from..

The indentations look a lot like spark plug electrode mate.

I once left mine at a "reputable" tuner for dyno-ing after a forged rebuild and was not happy with the results, (less power everywhere with higher specs) and after lots of head scratching I pulled it out and found the pricks had melted plugs in it (dash 8's) and simply put new ones in it and gave it back to me.

yeah +1 for detonation.

would also explain why the bearing has gone on no5 too.

You would think it would be across the board but and evident in all cylinders. I suppose if no5 injector had issues there's a possibility.

What do the other cylinders looke like?

odd thought... but had you used a die grinder on or near your intercooler piping or anything that would have been open on the intake setup weather it be plenum, TB, ic piping, comp housing, intake pipe....

that pitting either looks like the result of ceramic bits off a sparkplug or metal filings from something not being cleaned properly after working on it..

hi Cartman, no mate if i ever do anything like that the cars is not in the garage, you can see some die grinding work on the head in the pics, i have over the weekend fully ported and polished the head. its away now for a light skim. now the piston tops are cleaned of they almost look as good as the day they went in..lol

all the valve guides in 1 piece? ive seen the inlets fracture and do similar damage.

that wont be the cause of the damage. its not detonation.

to only dammage 1 bearing its only oil contanimation. fron the look of it something has been sitting in the crank and got loosed. did you have the crank grubscrewed when it was first built?

of have you recently put on a oil cooler?

hi t04gtr

cars has always had a 19row oil cooler fitted.feedsin the top and drain at the bottom, the oil filter is mounted low on a remote so when you do and oil change the cooler empties too.

no grub screw mate, collar was sweated on and has never moved

no valve guides damaged at all.

i find it hard to believe det after looking at the pistons..

still wondering why?.

bernie

If you had lost an engine at 900klm you would feel the same way as Marko. The engine in question was a low revving item that was never put under stress...N1 went bang.

GTRNUR...correct...the mains are all shiny from eating rod bearing material.

So what kind of revs was it pulling and under what circumstances did it go bang? Drag/circuit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...