Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not sure where you are, but Dan @ Midas Brighton works on quite a few imports, he could probably sort out your exhaust, or at least give you an honest opinion on what can/can't be done to it.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm surprised about them taking photographs of engine bays unless it's for evidence of offence which EPA is not.

I just worked traffic car shift tonight and very surprised at how well everyone was behaving. Only gave out 10 fines with the worst offender an unlicensed driver doing 40+km/h over speed limit but she was running late to her shift at the Brothel.

I'm surprised about them taking photographs of engine bays unless it's for evidence of offence which EPA is not.

I just worked traffic car shift tonight and very surprised at how well everyone was behaving. Only gave out 10 fines with the worst offender an unlicensed driver doing 40+km/h over speed limit but she was running late to her shift at the Brothel.

Did she offer a free "full service" to get out of the fine? :devil:

lol

i was on my way back home from church which is like a 5min drive, doing 60 down a 70 road. this marked car going the opposite way spots me, puts his lights on, runs a red light does a u-turn comes speeding towards me and tells me to pull over.... yeah just doing his job ha lol

oh well

Stud road last night about 10:30?

The TMU around Knox ALWAYS take photo's, they obviously want to be thorough and make sure that there is no discrepancy.

lol at spare tyre comment, some cars don't even come with them from factrory, 206 GTi being one of them, instead they come with a can of that green tyre repair goo. Next they'll defect you for running a space saver on your car because it's a different width to the other tyre on the same axle! lol at stupid heavy handed cops!

We don't have these problems in the west!

Do you know if it was TMU or just joe plod, most joe plods would know very little about this sort of thing so i wouldnt be surprised if they take pictures to show TMU to see if they can find something wrong.

I'm surprised about them taking photographs of engine bays unless it's for evidence of offence which EPA is not.

I just worked traffic car shift tonight and very surprised at how well everyone was behaving. Only gave out 10 fines with the worst offender an unlicensed driver doing 40+km/h over speed limit but she was running late to her shift at the Brothel.

yeh i had photos taken then gotta epa a couple weeks after..

more importantly...

PICS OR BAN!

come on everyone is thinking it..

lol @ you dildos driving your imports on the Easter weekend!

The amount of cops up here is making it look like Melbourne almost! Thank god I've got the 1200 to drive around in!

Yeah I read this morning's Herald Sun headlines, it appears that baby boomers are reaching the age of senility early.

I'd just not drive or go cruising, dunno about down there, but up here the TMU has a field day on anyone who's stupid enough to bring out their modified cars (except of course for wankers in their "muscle cars")...

used to be good driving my very loud SS in Melb, had NSW rego which for 99% of Victorian cops was too much trouble to give defects out to :devil:

I'm surprised about them taking photographs of engine bays unless it's for evidence of offence which EPA is not.

I just worked traffic car shift tonight and very surprised at how well everyone was behaving. Only gave out 10 fines with the worst offender an unlicensed driver doing 40+km/h over speed limit but she was running late to her shift at the Brothel.

The police officer who took the photo of my engine bay told me that the picture is for the EPA, if the EPA see something in the pic that they want to see in person, they will send me a letter to go to Macleod.

i dont think u will get a warning you'll either get told to go epa for test or nothing.. but i doubt it will be nothing. Almost any place can tuck ur exhaust i went to flexifit in hoppers crossing but yeh try another shop it can always go higher :)

yeh itll be the breather filter thats got ya stuffed..

epa wont do u for the hole in the chassis the cops will do u for that.

I got a warning, telling me to put part back to standard (Cooler or airbox), maybe because it was my first EPA, who knows, they were probably swamped with cars to test.

i was on my way back home from church...

y-y-y-y-y-y-y-mean, y-y-y-y-y-y-y-y-you d-d-d-d-d-din't ask h-h-h-h-h-h-h-him if h-h-h-h-h-h-he w-w-w-w-w-w-w-wouldn't l-l-l-l-l-l-like t-t-t-t-t-t-to b-b-b-b-b-b-buy a bible? :)

They'll sometimes scare ya with those EPA things, got told i'd have an epa in the mail.. 2-3 months later still nothing..

Depend how lazy they are. I've had the same thing but I've also had an epa notice and the cop didn't even mention it :)

yeh spoton russman some threatin you and nothing comes of it others just suprise you

I prefer threats anyday haha.

Funny thing was that my V8 commodore was ridiculously loud and an EPA would have been fine so I would have an excuse to put a muffler on it. That notice never came...

Then the suprise EPA on the skyline was a nightmare!

I prefer threats anyday haha.

Funny thing was that my V8 commodore was ridiculously loud and an EPA would have been fine so I would have an excuse to put a muffler on it. That notice never came...

Then the suprise EPA on the skyline was a nightmare!

Is there some sort of law that allows them to take a picture of the engine bay in your car

I havent heard about it, did they ask your permission to do that

they took pictures inside my car as well.. i think it would come under evidence gathering for illegal / unroadworthy mods.. as if your gonna argue with them though really they'll just get the baton right up ya if u do

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...