Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have 3rd party only on the r32, it just wasnt worth it in my view for the value of my car for fully comprehensive, $2000 per year + $1000 excess

plus nrma 3rd party has uninsured motorists extension up to $5000 if you get hit

by someone without insurance

the trade off, you have to drive sensibly/alert so as to not cause an accident, and not covered for theft, so wont leave my car anywhere remotely dodgy...any carpark...

although if you cant afford to buy another car if you have an at fault accident, then you should probably have full insurance...

the trade off, you have to drive sensibly/alert so as to not cause an accident, and not covered for theft, so wont leave my car anywhere remotely dodgy...any carpark...

this is no offence but i dont see why people say they should behave any different to if they have comprahensive or 3rd party insurance.

does it mean if you have comprehensive insurance you can drive like a dickhead because u are covered ??? no...

anyways this is just a little rant hehe drive like you normally do i have 3rd party on my car but i dont go hmmm maybe i shouldnt do this cause i only have 3rd party...

but yea i am looking to get a skylien with 3rd party been quoted anywhere from $450 +

this is no offence but i dont see why people say they should behave any different to if they have comprahensive or 3rd party insurance.  

does it mean if you have comprehensive insurance you can drive like a dickhead because u are covered ??? no...  

anyways this is just a little rant hehe drive like you normally do i have 3rd party on my car but i dont go hmmm maybe i shouldnt do this cause i only have 3rd party...

but yea i am looking to get a skylien with 3rd party been quoted anywhere from $450 +

i just meant leave bigger gaps and stay away from other cars like you do on a motorbike ;p

do you guys get tailgaters? i get them all the time...usually corolla twin cams!! or 4wds on the m5

its so bad i have considered wiring up my reverse lights to a switch !

i think the argument is if u have full comp u can afford to drive like a dickhead ... u can't with just 3rd party ... so if u just got 3rd party then u shouldn't drive like a dickhead ..

If you driving habits change because you are comprehensivly insured then you need to take another look at how insurance works.

If you have even one incident in which you have to claim it costs you both arms and both legs.

Firstly you have to pay your excess, which in most peoples cases is $1000 - $2000 .

Next you lose your No Claim Bonus of up to 60% (unless you are on lifetime which few are) so next years insurance costs 60% more.

Next you have made a claim/had an "incident" so next years insurance takes THAT into account and classifies you as a bad driver which means bigger premiums.

An at fault accident can leave you in the shit for up to 5 years. even if noone was hurt and no other cars were involved!

regardless, even if you are a careful driver with 3rd party only you'll take less chances

simple as that ;p :flamed:

the company car is a lot faster than my skyline but it has less power figure that out..... :(

its all about risk and personal cost....

thats what insurance is.... im self insured (3rd party) on the skyline because

the cost of me having an accident and having to fix my car is less than fully comprehensive in the long run... um another factor is i drive once a week too :Bang:

do you guys get tailgaters? i get them all the time...usually corolla twin cams!! or 4wds on the m5

its so bad i have considered wiring up my reverse lights to a switch !

holy crap yes! it's scary aswell as I know I have better brakes then they do!

I have full comp but I drive like I don't as it costs too much too make a claim.

I just had a look over my insurance policy (Famous Classic Insurance).

* 21yrs old living in Western Sydney.

* 1995 Nissan Skyline Coupe.

* $25,500 or market value (whichever is lesser).

* Usage: Private/Daily.

* 40% NCB

= $3,036 (or $2,760 if I pay it upfront).

Basic Excess = $1,000.

Additional Excess = $2,000 (theft and/or malicious damage).

Plus $2,000 single vehicle accident excess.

So that means:

* Car is stolen = $2,000 upfront (or $5,036 over 1yr)

* An at fault accident = $3,000 upfront (or $6,036 over 1yr)

That means if I was to have an accident i'd have to do more than $6,000 damage for insurance to be worthwhile.

Personally i'd rather spend 1 years worth of insurance ($3,306 in my case) and go all out on security devices and then just sit back and pray that nothing major goes wrong for a good 3 or 4 years. The only problem with this idea is that if you haven't held full comprehensive insurance anytime in the last 365 days your NCB drops all the way back to scratch and you have to build it up again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...