Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got the car back today.

first, Its much much louder than stock.

2nd. I ran vdc in R mode and I couldnt apply much more than 50% throttle in 1st gear and 80% throttle in 2nd gear. VDC kicks in.

then with vdc off its pretty much the same deal.

I cannot get more than about .8 Gs in first gear.. 2nd gear i managed to get .9 before vdc.

3rd. I get a warning light on the dash after about 20 mins of driving... reset ecu... warning light again in 20 mins.

thoughts? ideas?

to taclke the vdc issue im thinking of getting wider/softer tyres. Im a little annoyed I cant even get the standard 1g in first gear like a stock gtr..

  • 2 weeks later...

guys, any particular things to keep in mind when trying to run with VDC off. sounds like there is more to it than switching it off at the panel from the above post?

I will be running the latest COBB stage 2 tune at the track with 20 inch toyos tomorrow (which are on their last legs I reckon) and was going to run VDC off as I think it is occasionally cutting in more frequently than previous when giving it a bootful on the street

got the car back today.

first, Its much much louder than stock.

2nd. I ran vdc in R mode and I couldnt apply much more than 50% throttle in 1st gear and 80% throttle in 2nd gear. VDC kicks in.

then with vdc off its pretty much the same deal.

I cannot get more than about .8 Gs in first gear.. 2nd gear i managed to get .9 before vdc.

3rd. I get a warning light on the dash after about 20 mins of driving... reset ecu... warning light again in 20 mins.

thoughts? ideas?

to taclke the vdc issue im thinking of getting wider/softer tyres. Im a little annoyed I cant even get the standard 1g in first gear like a stock gtr..

Did you sort out this VDC issue (traction control with VDC off) because if yuo are saying you have issues with VDC off and 50% throttle, something is very wrong, i have never heard of this before. Would like to know the cause/outcome. Almost sounds like mismatched tyre diameter.

edit: this didnt arise on the dyno?

Edited by LSX-438

hey,

No.. there were no problems on the dyno what so ever.

The guys called martin (willall) and we did a sequence of turn car on, vdc off, car off. bla bla.. cant remember.. I dont know if its a coincedience but it seems i can go full throttle now with no issues with vdc off... it still kicks in when its on and sometimes it will kick in when in R mode. also tested in wet and the wheels spun without traction nicely.

other issue is o2 sensors are gettign too hot, causing error on dash.. HKS have heard of this issue a few times and have made a fix.. getting this sorted this week.

car is completely stock apart from gt600 kit, bigger fmic and trans cooler (stock rims etc)

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
<br />A modders heaven - HKS parts neatly stacked on display atop its carton box.  Looking foward to this one!<br />
<br /><br /><br />

+ 1 :D I love when people get all the parts at once and do a build rather than gradual progression.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...