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Hey guys, i just bought a vl calais and i am just about to go onto my P's and i would like a bit more power, but being a P' plater i cant turbo it, even though how much i would love to but i just don't want to take the risk, also because i have a friend who also has a vl calais and he has been asked so many time to pop his hood,

so i was wondering what is the max i can get out of a RB30 with out turboing it, im willing to put a RB25 head on it and do head and all that sort of stuff.

cheers

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Stock they have 112kw at the fly, so about 80-90kw at the wheels.

That was brand new out of the factory, so I doubt you'd be making more than 80wkw 20yrs later...

RB30s are no different to any other NA motor, so anything that increases the basic needs of an engine is good (more air in = more fuel in = more power)

As for what you can and can't do on your Ps, I havn't a clue, I live in WA...

If I was going down an NA route, I'd be looking at a good free flowing exhaust (2.5" would be ok) including extractors.

Then it can get VERY expensive quickly, you COULD go for an RB25 head, higher compression, fat cams, higher redline, and a gosh darn-off aggressive tune etc but it depends how much money you've got to throw around.

But it would never be worth it, cos all that would result in eff all gains.

Save your money and buy something with a better platform for power production when you're off your Ps. i.e. something big (>5L) or turbo...

[edit] look at post no.7 (from gts-143) on that first link that TwoCents posted... That's a perfect example of a well done NA RB30 engine...

Edited by turbo x-trail
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also while i got the money i would like to build it to handle a lot of power so in a couple of years i dont have to worry about doing all the internals, so all i have to worry about is putting a big turbo on it and tuning it.

To make a quick rb2530de is a completely different build for a bog turbo big boost rb2530det.

Personally don't touch it until you're off p's. Any performance mod is illegal, and the 30sohc head breaths as well if not worse then a 20de head... Ie hopelessly

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I just wouldn't bother modding it engine wise for now. Especially since you are on your Ps and you drive a VL.... Your are a cop magnet, and any modification is not recommended.

Most I'd do is get a K&N panel filter and tweak the ignition timing - maybe if your budget can stretch - get a new high flow cat. Keep it stock.

The rest of the money I'd put into.

- Quality Tires/wheels

- New shocks

- Better brake pads and maybe new rotors.

The trick is getting the best quailty maintenance items you can realistically afford.

Stock engines aren't too bad if well maintained (and you also got the reliability etc..) - and sometimes tend to push out more power than mildly modified engines that are not being taken care of....

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It's Illegal on your Ps bro. We've already said that.

Superchargers aren't really worth it. Turbos shit on them.

Personally I'd just spent your money on wheels tyres, suspension etc...

Then ditch the VL when you're off your Ps and get something that's better to work with i.e. something RB20/25/26, SR, 1JZ, 2JZ etc... THEN you can look forward to making good, reliable power...

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supercharger kits for the rb30 are available but not really worth it

and as MBS206 said dont mod it till you are off you P's driving an illegally modified car is 7 points and a suspension that im not too sure how long that is,

i reckon if you still want to mod the vl, buy all the parts over the next 3 years then when you get your full license pull it off the road and put it all together, keep it stock for now, dont go down the n/a path as n/a parts can be designed differently for forced induction so to do a n/a now will be waisting your money.

Edited by Gerg_R31
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Twin camming just isnt going to happen, plus it is an obvious mod that you could get pulled up for if a cop knows what he's talking about. A healthy RB30 with a custom intake pipe, CAI pod filter and extractors/highflowcat/2.5" catback exhaust and 20degree's ignition timing on 98ron is worth about 100-105kW at the wheels. Add a mild reground cam (GTS2 spec or similar) and an XF/KA24e Throttlebody (With the plenum port matched) and you can see about 110kW at the treads.

With the car like that, it will be a good drive, that is is nice amount of power (and what i had on my p's without any turbo restriction), if you mod wisely like a quietish exhaust (i.e a few large straight through centre offset mufflers), completely enclose your pod and have discrete intake piping (aka not chrome, just black) or better yet keep an airbox with a dry highflow filter, somthing like this http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...F_Throttle_body (3/4 down the page) using the larger pipe and box from a different model car.

The will keep the car looking and sounding stock and therefore no police attention.

On top of this, the GTS2 cam operates well with boost, as do all of the above listed mods, so if you are to turbo it a few years down the track, a lot of those mods will still benefit you.

For a bit more power and better economy, you can get a nistune ECU (www.nistune.com), and get the engine tuned with the above mods, and you get other bonuses like being able to run a larger AFM which will get you more air flow through your intake pipe when running th XF throttlebody and once again, these mods are still very relevant for a turbo conversion. This will get you another couple kW peak and hold power for longer before it drops off after peak, as well as a WAY better midrange and economy benefits.

Then the last engine mod is compression, if you never intend to turbo your car, pull the head off and get it shaved, a bit more compression makes a huge difference on RB30's as they are a bit low standard, and its essentually free power, as you get better economy and more power from the same fuel, this is most ideal as the final mod though (after management) otherwise you'll have to wind timing out of it ont he stock management, and it will limit the aount you could get it shaved...

As for non engine mods, DIFF GEARS! VL's have awefull diff gearing and this is why out of the factory, the heaviier R31's with the same power are faster 0-100 and faster 1/4 mile. If your car is auto, 4.11 crownwheel and piston from an R31 pintara, if your car is manual 3.9 from an auto skyline is the most ideal. This makes a massive difference on VL's and if you do it yourself, is a really cheap relatively easy mod (takes about a day <$100) and while your at it, you could throw in a dirty BW LSD, which would be OK in an N/A.

And lastly if your car is manual, when you get a new clutch, which i'm guessing will be heavy duty, maybe get a lightweight flywheel, it will go well with your shorter gearing, and i just love them for rev matching and downshifting. Once again, if you intend to turbo, do it right tghe first time and just get an RB25DET HD clutch, they are light under foot and will hold happily with boost, unlike standard RB30 HD's.

With all those mods in a VL, you could get a flat 15 with good driving, the car will be very responsive, alright on fuel and should keep you pretty happy for the time being, then you can spend your money on suspension/brakes/car restoration while your waiting for the time to pass :D.

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wow who cares.

i dont think you realize what a jump 120rwkw to 150rwkw is on a na car with just exhaust and intake

I'm simply pointing out that its cheaper to reach 150rwkw in an NA 2JZ, than an an NA RB30, and that's including initial purchase price of each car.

And a full exhaust and intake gives 150rwkw on a healthy NA Supra (i.e a Supra putting down 130rwkw without mods) and unhealthy motor will see 120rwkw stock and 140rwkw with exhaust and intake.

I understand he probably loves his VLs and doesn't want a Supra, but I'm just making a point in case he does change his mind.

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He's already bought the VL, your comments aren't necessary, your pretty much telling him to sell the car he just bought and pay 3-4x as much and get a supra...

As for the 150kW comments,. i don't know much about Supra's, But on the same day and same dyno that my RB30DE made 151kW, an NA 2JZ supra with intake, exhaust & other mods made 125kW at the wheels, it was a late 90's model with like 50thou on the clock.

Obviously they do and can make a lot more power easier than an RB30e, but they are about on par with a proper twin cam RB30 (RB25 head, RB25 pistons, RB30 Block), and remember a supra weigh's almost 200kg more than a VL, yes of course they are alot better but they also cost a lot more, and are a completely different type of car.

Edited by SKiT_R31
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  • 1 month later...

2 1/2" exhaust , pod, 52 tooth trick 1-2mm shaved of the head decent set of leads and plugs should see 110rwkw got dyno sheet if your interested in the other figures, all you can really do while on ur ps and all these mods are very cheap to do. save your money till off ur ps and then go crazy with what ever route u go down.

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