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Avc-r Help!!!

cameron

By cameron,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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EVO Cam Collaborator

EVO Cam

Posted
Posted
yup.. :)

Its white with gtr body kit. (R33 gtst)

when do you wanna go on another cruise ???

(Thanks GTR CAM) :)

what are your settings ?:)

not all of them just the basics like duty,nepoint,bst,scramble,learn gear ?

cheers :D

Mate,

Mine wasn't plumbed correctly so it has been useless since I got the car, have been driving around on about 7-8psi...

Car is now in getting a MOTEC M800, so I'll let you know what settings I'll be using when it's tuned properly...

Cam

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EVO Cam Collaborator

EVO Cam

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ok,

have you got it turned off ? or on setting (a) , (B) ?

cause when we put it on settings a or b it misfires ?

so we left it off and it works fine at 7 psi, has this got to do with the setup ?

Sounds like you have a problem similar to mine, although mine wasn't missing as such... Maybe yours just isn't hooked up properly either?

Who did your installation, or was it a DIY jobbie?

Cam

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cameron Mentor

cameron

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we addjust the boost higher and it doesnt go over 10psi on boost guage,

we turned the boost down to .40 and the duty to 70 and it went to 14 psi but it was going now were due to the tubo overspinning i think ?

its weird can use people out their who are useing an avcr on their skyline give the their bst/dty settings :P the other settings are all default if they have to be changed please let us know.

Thanks,

Cameron

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

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Ok turn the thing 'Off'

Now go for a drive and see what boost its running. Using my car as an example my car will run 0.6bar (14.5psi=1 bar)

Now if i want to run say 0.8bar, which is not much of a step then i dont need to run a lot of duty cycle, around 30 from memory.

If i wanted to run 1.2 bar then i need to run much higher duty cycle to get that sort of boost increase. The bigger the difference between std boost and your setting the harder it will be for the AVC-R to hold stable boost.

Duty cycle is controlling the opening of the solenoid valve. When the solenoid valve is open the wastegate does not see the actual inlet manifold pressure as its being bled off thru the open valve.

So by increasing the duty cycle you are actually ensuring the valve is open longer, which means more air is bled off fooling the wastegate to stay open as the required pressure has not been achieved to overcome the wasteate's spring.

If you want to run 1.0bar then id suggest setting it to 0.95bar (i found it helps stop overshooting during setup-ceramic wheels and all) and having the duty cylce around 45. If its holding boost fine then tweak it up to 1.0bar, and see if its stable, if not then bump up or down depending on whether it is undershooting or overshooting, the duty cycle a little bit at a time.

Once the thing is holding stable boost it will begin to self learn when coming onto boost on full throttle.

Have a read of the manual, it is pretty easy to set up once you know what the parameters mean. Soem links that give you a rough grounding on setup can be found here Here and Here

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

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To answer those questions you need to know how the AVC-R has been wired up. If you are monitoring injector duty cycle, then i think you will find that you are unable to use gear specific boost.

Scramble boost has to be wired up to a separately purchased button, and changing the ne point you are actually changing the rpm when the solenoid valve will start to pulse open/closed. The fact that it will remain closed up to a cerain rpm ensures there is no pressure being seen by the wastegate, so no wastegate creep. I found with the stock turbo it was pretty hard to sense by seats of the pants, but observing the rpm at which duty cycle starts to register gives you an idea of when it begines to play tricks on the wastegate.

Any help???

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cameron Mentor

cameron

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yer,

last night we were playing with it an we tryed your boost settings, (0.95bst - 40%dty)

and it changed the boost to 0.73 so we uped the duty in till we go 1.01bst, the we turned the boost down because we thought the turbo was over spinning we ran 0.85bst and it was on about 12 - 13 psi but the car felt like its going no were, and it looses a great amount of power in 3rd an 4th gear when after 4500rpm ? although the boost guage is saying 12psi ?

what can be done ?

Thanks,

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

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yer,

last night we were playing with it an we tryed your boost settings, (0.95bst - 40%dty)

and it changed the boost to 0.73 so we uped the duty in till we go 1.01bst, the we turned the boost down because we thought the turbo was over spinning we ran 0.85bst and it was on about 12 - 13 psi but the car felt like its going no were, and it looses a great amount of power in 3rd an 4th gear when after 4500rpm ? although the boost guage is saying 12psi ?  

what can be done ?  

Thanks,

Sorry maybe i didnt explain myself properly.

It sounds as though your happy running 0.85bar, so ill work with that.

Set the boost to 0.85 bar, and your duty cycle to about 30.

You shouldnt be relying on the duty to get the boost pressure your after. Firstly you should have the boost setting set at the level you want, then tweak the duty cycle to get table boost at that level. If thats what you have dont hen sorry, its not clear whether you have it set at 0.85 to run 0.85, or running lower-say 0.5bar with more duty cycle.

The lack of urgency at 12-13psi could be other things like the variable cam timing, sudden richness from AFM playing games etc etc. Not really the boost controller

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