Engine Upgrades For The Stagea

[dirtyRS4]

Its like deja vu darrin. RIPS built RB33. There is no substitute.

http://www.performancecar.co.nz/Members/An...nissan-skylines

Edited April 17, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[KiwiRS4T]

Can make 300kw (400hp) from an RB25 no problem so RB26 not needed for that power level!

Depends what type of power/drive you want

If you want 400bhp Id go stage 1 RB26 with a power Fc any more an RB30 is may be better

I went down the forged Rb26 route but I had the engine in the car already and I wanted 500hp atw With 2860-5s there isnt much lag ( 470ish ft lbs at 4500rpm with virtually no drop untill 6500) .

plus it sounds insane over 7500rpm on high boost

Despite this if I had to do it again I probably would go RB 30 though a gearbox may be needed if you do too many drags

Apologies but everything is hp not KW in the UK

[RSVFOURUK]

Can make 300kw (400hp) from an RB25 no problem so RB26 not needed for that power level!

Agreed I would not change a 25 for a 26 for that power. I didnt say you need a 26 I said it was easier

Sure you can get there with a 25 but if you have a 26 induction, exhaust , ecu and a boost controller and you are easily there ( mine made 420)

[dirtyRS4]

Its all been covered before. You guys make me lol.

The best info is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...sions-f184.html

Edited April 18, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[darrinspencer]

Thanks for the replys, some interesting thoughts there to consider

Main reason for thinking of an engine upgrade is the stock internal rb25 will not last for ever pushing 300rwkw's

I have all the supporting mods people have mentioned to make this power plus some, but the main limiting factor will be running high boost (18psi+) on stock internals and head gasket to get the best out of the gt3076.

The other reason was for more torque, not just a few more kw's, so the reason for a rb30 bottom end

Some of the problems with the taller rb30, looks like the plazmaman plenum could be too high, so may have to stay with the copy greddy plenum I have but loose down/mid range response due to shorter intake runners.

So the rb26/30 comes into play. That way you will get the extra torque, have a low front facing plenum, can run some nice, not to big twin turbos etc

[rb26stagea]

Darrin, don't know if you've been following my threads, but I just installed the 4.33 diff gears from the R32 Gts-4. MASSIVE improvement in driveability: it feels like it always should have... My offer stands: take mine for a few hours and see what you think...

[darrinspencer]

Darrin, don't know if you've been following my threads, but I just installed the 4.33 diff gears from the R32 Gts-4. MASSIVE improvement in driveability: it feels like it always should have... My offer stands: take mine for a few hours and see what you think...

If I do not get my car finished for the end of May when it is entered for the qld sau drag day, I will borrow yours for a few hours

I promise to only drive it from 0-400m about 5 times

4.33?

What are stagea's normally?

I would have assume yours would have had gtr diff gears after having the rb26 swap and r32 gtr rear end?

[KiwiRS4T]

Stagea is 4.1 and R32, R33 Gtr are pretty similar. I am planning to change to R34 GTR diffs which are 3.545 in order to lower the revs at highway cruising speeds. My R33 GTR gearbox appears to have slightly lowered the gearing and I want to make it a bit taller. I figure that the RB30 will provide enough low down torque to get off the line OK. I should have more power than a stock R34GTR which are barely lighter than a Stagea.

Micah what do you mean by improved driveability? Do you mean for dragging? I guess you will be operating in the 0- 9000 range whereas I will be limiting mine to 7000.

[rb26stagea]

Stagea is 4.1 and R32, R33 Gtr are pretty similar. I am planning to change to R34 GTR diffs which are 3.545 in order to lower the revs at highway cruising speeds. My R33 GTR gearbox appears to have slightly lowered the gearing and I want to make it a bit taller. I figure that the RB30 will provide enough low down torque to get off the line OK. I should have more power than a stock R34GTR which are barely lighter than a Stagea.

Micah what do you mean by improved driveability? Do you mean for dragging? I guess you will be operating in the 0- 9000 range whereas I will be limiting mine to 7000.

between the (slightly) lower compression, cams and turbos, it was always a little laggy, and fell into an off-boost hole whenever I was just pottering around (light throttle, low-rev changes).

Those days are gone: it feels so much more alive... When you give it some stick, it really lifts its skirts now....

[unique1]

mine runs the 4.3 ratio as well, i find its good for response but shocking for freeway cruising, im sitting on like 2700rpm on 100kmh which it sounds alot with the 3' exhuast noise and hence the reason im sitting on 0 vacuum at that speed. I would prefer the 3.5 or something as mentioned then it would be nice. Something around 2200rpm at 100kmh would be ideal.

[darrinspencer]

Just bought a R33 GTR head c/w inlet manifold and bigger cams

Chase up a rb30 bottom end and turbo's later

[wolverine]

You can't go wrong now.

[darrinspencer]

You can't go wrong now.

I have done a bit of a back flip, but after considering the issues with the different setups, I think the RB26/30 is the better/easier option.

The main problems with the rb25/30 combo were

1. Extra block height and the inlet plenum fouling the bonnet. I really wanted to use the plazmaman plenum over the greddy style due to being able to retain the longer inlet runners.

2. Pushing past 300rwkw on a single turbo becomes a bit less drivable for daily use and probably need to go external gate which I did not want to do.

Advantages of the the rb26/30 combo

1. Retain the rb26 inlet plenum, no need to upgarde, save money plus clear the bonnet

2. Power goal is around 350rwkw, so this can be achieved with small twin turbos and still look factory. My car does not need any more cop bait.

3. Cheaper to buy rebuild parts for the 26 over the 25.

4. The most important bit of all. Wank factor of a rb26. They look heaps sexier

Disadvantage of the 26/30 combo.

1. Will need to rewire, change computer, mod exhaust and inlet piping

By the time I sell off the rb25 and all the add on's, the $$ damage will not be too bad. Well that is what I am telling myself.

[rb26stagea]

disregard.

[dirtyRS4]

You can't go wrong now.

I hate to say it dazza -but i knew you would when you researched further into it.

For a car of this standard it is well worth it. Now to start a thread on what turbo to choose for a specific setup.

Edited April 20, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[msports180]

mine runs the 4.3 ratio as well, i find its good for response but shocking for freeway cruising, im sitting on like 2700rpm on 100kmh which it sounds alot with the 3' exhuast noise and hence the reason im sitting on 0 vacuum at that speed. I would prefer the 3.5 or something as mentioned then it would be nice. Something around 2200rpm at 100kmh would be ideal.

At 110kmh in mine im sitting on around 2800rpm and just under zero vacuum to, i think it more to do with the intake plenum design?

Its the reason why i think 25/30 wud be better for daily then 26/30, but obviously 26/30 for outright power.

[BoostedBarge]

Nice! This car is turning out to be a very nice example indeed. I agree with everyone else, the RB26 is lacking a bit down low for the heavy car. Keep us posted on your engine build

[eXquiSit]

when going rb30 bottom end, do you guys still retain 4wd?

also how many still use the auto?

[KiwiRS4T]

Stock S1 awd auto I was doing 2600 rev/min at 110km/hr with the standard 4.1 diff. R32 and R33 GTR diffs are about the same but R34GTR is 3.545 which would translate to a restful 2250 rpm. Zero boost or vacuum would be the norm at cruising speed regardless of plenum type or gearing.

I am sticking with awd with the rb30 but have converted to manual (R33GTR box) already (luckily the GTR transfer case is a little bit stronger than the Stagea one).

[darrinspencer]

when going rb30 bottom end, do you guys still retain 4wd?

also how many still use the auto?

No manual box

Yes, keep AWD. Have to use a sump adaptor fitted between the rb30 block and sump

No point going Rb30 and 300++ kw's in a RWD street car