Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from my understanding after reading a few things about them is no centre cap is compatible with these..

how much for a set of 4 18x11 +18 for GTR

thanks

Correct no centre caps are compatible as it's targetting the track style, no need for centre caps as it' add weight :)

18x11+18 all round will be $3350

Cheers

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

$3300 +$80 delivery if in metro of Sydney.

Sorry no chance of custom colour, if you want custom colour then you can go for the normal TE37 for around $4400 :P

still cheaper to buy these and get them painted :)

just one more thing I need to clarify..

these are identical to the old style in shape and form ?

eg.. old 10.5 +22 and new SL 10.5 +22 are Identical in dish and concave of spokes

only difference being weight and looks like a smoother finish?

thanks

Edited by BLACK BEAST
still cheaper to buy these and get them painted :thumbsup:

just one more thing I need to clarify..

these are identical to the old style in shape and form ?

eg.. old 10.5 +22 and new SL 10.5 +22 are Identical in dish and concave of spokes

only difference being weight and looks like a smoother finish?

thanks

Dish and concave is identically the same..

  • 4 weeks later...
What size would you like, due to the drop in our dollar prices have gone up

I am looking at 18x10.5 +15 or 18x10 +20 in 114.3 5 stud.

Do you know the wheel weights for these?

thankyou.

  • 1 month later...

Just an update, our shipment leaves next week and will arrive the end of the month. So we'll be shipping orders out first week of August!! It's well worth the wait guys, considering the dollar shit itself and prices have jumped up by at least $400 a set!!

Can I still order it right now? How to pick up the rims?

No, sorry shipment is scheduled to leave in a few days. We're looking at ordering again for arrival in Oct-Nov..so if you want you can place an order for this shipment. All up with pre-orders we have sold 20 sets of these!!!




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...