Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had awesome racing pedals in my last car, they were made specifically for the car and actually made a difference: They felt much better and I always noticed them (they looked great) on entering the car too which was nice.

I am after some racing pedals for my R32 GT-R. Any ideas? I have done asearch but couldn't find anything. And when I check out sites online they seem to sell a lot of different kinds of pedals but none of them sem to be specifically for the Skyline. Will all of these (Sparco, momo etc...) fit easily?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31750-the-best-racing-pedals/
Share on other sites

Well, I find the rubber ones TOO grippy at times (ie: you can't really re-position your foot on a pedal unless you raise it off the pedal 1st). I had aluminium ones with raised steel studs (I think they were illegal actually as there was no rubber on them at all) and they were great.

i also have razo metal ones, and think they r great (alittle close together gas and brake alittle close but u get use 2 it)

hehehe no such thing as too close, there's plenty of room down there for big feet....you just need to get used to it

Contary the best racing pedals are no pedals at all.

Anything that comes between your foot and the actual factory pedal further reduces feel.

Its the reason why racing shoes are made with thin soles so as to enhance feel.

So after market pedal caps (i call them those becos thats what they are...they do not actually replace the factory pedals) are actually a step back.

If pedal placement is a problem (i.e u find it hard to heel toe because the pedals are too far apart) then u can try bending the pedal stem to get the pedals to sit at the correct height and position you desire

usuckpoo: fair call. But the surface of the pedal does make a difference in feel. Steel/aluminium feels different through shoes than rubber does. And perhaps one of the major difference is visual appeal. Which IS important to some of us. As I mentioned above, when I used to hop in the Alfa, with my black Novitec pedals from Germany... I'd look at them upon entry.. they made me smile.

Ive got a metal studded brake pedal and some dodgy type r accelerator pedal. Its actually ok as it sits close to the brake, making it easy to do that cool heel and toe thingo, allbeit poorly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...