Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've driven a host of new Aussie performance cars. The turbo ute isn't as controllable as the SV8, although it's line-ball in acceleration and can carry enough kegs of bundy n coke to have you pissed into 2006.

I'd look at the lease deals you can get with SS Commodore Utes. They're very, very good.

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest MFX_R33
Any when trying to drift i typically have a 15-30km/h lower corner entry speed, otherwise all i get is a bit of oversteer on corner exit. That means you are typically doing 60-80km/h on most of these turns...

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.  

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

Jeff, your MAD :D Im not brave enough to go into the like of turn 2 at eastern creek at 100km/hr, sure some corners i may feel confident going in too hot and washing off speed thru the corner when the car is punted sideways.

Guest MFX_R33

I haven't driven on EC, so I don't know turn 2, but that is what drift is. Just putting your foot down when you exit a corner is not drift.

You need the high entry speed to get the car side ways before the corner, just look at some of the D1 competitions and you will see what I mean.

Jeff.

Yeh i know what your saying , but your corner speed is still way lower then normal...even if the actual corner entry id higher...the lead up to the corner as you say is higher again

The only way i can drift is to still be braking on turn in so the car steps out, i cant scandanavian flick, nor do i like the idea of using the handbrake....practice makes perfect!

yo what new non import cars are there that look good and drift alright as well

any car thats about upto mid 40s$$ brand new coz i can get good deals on them  

so RWD or AWD any help at all thanks :D

ummmm.... non import car brand new....for ~$45k hmmmm a BMW?? prolly best to try drift one of them.... or the XR6T or and RX8?? but apart from that with that price range for a brand new car that is a NON import your really cutting it fine... :rofl:

Guest MFX_R33

The only BMW that would come close to that price range is a 318i (new they are stll well into the $50k range), and if you have driven one, you will know they don't have enough power to pull the skin off of a toasted marshmallow.

XR6T would be worth looking at.

Jeff.

my mate owns a stock as a rock r31 pintara. he can get that thing sideways. what the **** r u guys talking about?? if the driver has the know how and the balls to flick his machine into a corner, and the suspension can handle it, then u can do awesome drift in a 1977 carona, or a go-cart even. no shit. maybe u can't really fry the tyres has much as something with more grunt,but all this talk about what is better for drifting is kids drible. mfx r33 is right on the money.

like i say, drift is speed, not power.

That is not drift, that is a bit of power oversteer on exit of the corner.  

In Drift you are usually going 15-30km/h FASTER than you would normally take the corner, and flick the steering early (feint-o) to get sideways before the corner and continue that all of the way through.

When travelling faster you are on the edge of traction from the start so even if you are slightly understeering on entry, all it takes is a tiny bit of the right foot to get the tail out.

Using this method you can drift in almost any car regaurdless of the power level.

Jeff.

SV8, ba xr6 turbo? both excellent cars for average performance and stylish power oversteer but way to fragile for real drift. 1. the sv8 has weakish diff, 2. handbrake does not like repeated abuse, 3. powersteer cooks itself crazy. XR6 ute has weak box, same diff dramas but slightly better hbrake setup. BOTH WEIGH way to much and therefore stress all their componentry to much for reliable drift. it is all well and good to say look at the touring cars but, these cars have fabricted or modified everything. From suspension parts and geometry to brakes and body bracing all of which is specialised considering the small market and well beyond the average punters wallet, especially after buying the car new.

Recent trips to japan had me watching late model chasers and verossa's and even some 350z's cutting serious drift with easy to get over the shelf parts.

Chasers are near new, compliance is avail and parts are aplenty (ex-japan, no stress) MAX 35k for car, 1.9k for sus, 2k for cooler kit, 1k for jap exhuast, 1.5k for 1.5 or 2way mech diff, 2hunge for decent brake pads and you have a slick practical (shopping and shite) drifter with around 240rwkw. ALL FOR WELL UNDER 50k.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...