Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Can anyone please confirm when hi beams are switched on, the low beam headlights should also remain on?

This is what the mechanic reckons as I have just gone for a pink slip test and did not pass because of this.

From memory I have never seen happen on my R33 GTS-t but haven't really took too much notice.

Cheers,

Leo

Edited by gwholxc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317977-help-regarding-headlights-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Can anyone please confirm when hi beams are switched on, the low beam headlights should also remain on?

This is what the mechanic reckons as I have just gone for a pink slip test and did not pass because of this.

From memory I have never seen happen on my R33 GTS-t but haven't really took too much notice.

Cheers,

Leo

The low beams turn off when you put high beams on as standard. I would find a different mechanic...

If you try and hold the stalk between the low beam and high positions can get them working at the same time though :blink:

Legaly your mechanic is correct. Skyline headlights don't do this and most people couldn't give two shits so just find a different mechanic.

affirmative. almost all cars that you see will have both highs and lows on at the same time. r33s all have what you do. there is a mod you can do, and its in the DIY section to fix this.

affirmative. almost all cars that you see will have both highs and lows on at the same time. r33s all have what you do. there is a mod you can do, and its in the DIY section to fix this.

I only noticed it as something out of the ordinary when I got my Subaru, low beams are always on!

I wonder what reasoning behind the rule is... as the high beams ALWAYS come on before the low beams turn off so you always have continuous forward facing light and the low beams are quite redundant while the high beams are on :blush:

Makes sense for the low beam to stay on when turning on high beam if you've got xenons... it's not good for the xenon bulb to be turned on and off quickly. But otherwise agree if they're just standard halogens the low beam is made redundant

I'll check out the DIY section; I've wanted to have this done since buying series 3 headlights aftermarket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...