Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Im after some feedback, I've got this unit in my R33 and it kicks ass. However I found it sounds it a million times better with MX off and Deft on, on the unit. With it off I get low signals being cut out such as vinyl crackle/noise from high quality cds and also loose some volume from the track. With it on the CD's seem so much louder and cleared, tons more trebble and bass :rofl:

Does anyone have a similar experience with this head unit?

Ok I've just found "DEFT" aka Defeat puts bass/trebble to factory settings and turns MX compression OFF. Previously I had bass/trebble at some level (unsure of what) and I turned on DEFT for the first time and so much more punch and sound from the CD's.

If you're lacking sound capabilities with the CDA-9807 try turning on DEFTEAT

turning on defeat turns all your settings off ... so that its pretty much pure cd music with no equaliser settings from what i know ... personally i never like to mess around with the settings ... apart from the sub control ... MX is a waste of time ... just another eq setting ... just a marketing thing i think ...

yeah, i found that with defeat on the clarity is hugely improved. Just gotta balance the output sound by adjusting the gain controls on the speakers and that is pretty much how i do the eq one mine. Previously spent hours doing the whole eq thing and while it made everything sound pretty fancy, overall it sounded a lot more artificial.

Yeah I've left mine with defeat on and no other eq settings or MX it sounds fantastic. Just the sub level at +10 and all the amps cranked to full. It's great

One of the best sounding head units ive heard

Guest SXY.033
Yeah I've left mine with defeat on and no other eq settings or MX it sounds fantastic. Just the sub level at +10 and all the amps cranked to full. It's great

One of the best sounding head units ive heard

Yeah i have the 7893 - and turn the MX expander off and like others prefer to tune it myself.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've got the 9807 and like most of you I don't use the MX either, and my defeat is on too. I have the sub set to +10 as well, and it sounds sweet just like that.

I had a Sony before this unit, and used to listen in Loud mode most of the time, and figured I'd end up doing the same when I got the Alpine put in, but I've noticed that I don't need it on (due to more internal power and 4V mains output to my amp, maybe?), and I agree it sounds kinda artificial and "forced" when you put the MX on - even when listening at low volumes, which is when you're most likely to use any kind of Loudness control.

Nick T.

  • 2 weeks later...

The MX button is only good when your listening to radio. If you turn your MX on when a good song goes on the radio, the bass that is lacking in a lot of Fm radio signals are kinda put back. Try it next time. But ye, with cd's or mp3's and so on, i never turn it on because the clariety drops and my alpine sounds like a sony headunit hehe :D

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm picking up a CDA-9815 head unit on Thursday so I'll be sure to set it up like you guys have suggested :D

I'm trying to decided if I should bother getting a basic 2ch amp (Alpine MRP-T220 ?) to run the front 6" (SPR-175A splits) or will the CDA-9815 be good enough? I'm not after big bass, but a little bit would be nice. Not interested in subs, too much weight.

I wouldnt get an amp. I had Kenwood 7x10 HQ's running off mine and they sounded great I couldnt even turn the headunit right up.

Now I use the headunit with the standard GTR Speakers which also works well. Not quite as good as the 7x10's but these GTR speakers are older now I guess

Thanks for the feed back fellas! Well here's what I've settled on...

Head unit - Alpine CDA-9815 (got this for $800 RRP-$999)

Front - Rockford Fosgate 6" splits (not yet sure which model - but quality ones)

Rear - Rockford Fosgate HE RFP4806 6 3/4" 8ohm subs (30-150WRMS power range)

Amp - Lightening Audio 50WRMS x 4ch

Should be a bit better than the dead stock system I have now. Won't add much extra weight either... which is important for "full street trim" legal drag racing :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...