Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stripping the 32 as ive purchased a 4 door-

gtr front bar with lip

fibreglass copy

lil bit of damage

easy repair

$150

r32 gtst stock rims

16" with rwc tread

$200 for all 4

3" front pipe(dump to cat)

good cond

$100

turbonetics 35mm external gate

$150

blown hypergear tr43 turbo

needs bearings

35mm tial copy gate welded to exhaust housing

v band dump welded to turbo

$200

rb20 r32 engine loom

$150

rb20 manual ecu

$100

stock r32gtst fuel pump in cradle

$50

rb20 auto gearbox

mint

$200

auto tailshaft

$80

r32 gtst 5 stud brake setup with hubs etc

calipers,rotors,pads,hubs etc

$500

r32 brake master cylinder and booster

$100

2X r200 lsd's

both mint one has 70k other 110k

$100 each

rb20 green label afm

$80

r32 gtst passenger seat

mint

could do with a clean

$80

r32 tail lights

$100 the pair

r32 headlights

projector style

$80 each

right hand orange indicator

$40

r32 blueface instrument cluster

130kms

$50

gktech steering wheel with boss kit

$100

r32 front subframe

$50

r32 rear subframe

$50

r32 front lca's

$100 pair

r32 stock front swaybar

$50

1992 r32 gtst bare shell with all glass,dash pad etc

green

all panels

pedal boxes

fuel tank

jap tint

reg'd in VIC

no defects ever

$500

car has til friday to sell whole then mass strippage will be happenin

0431683303

northern suburbs adelaide

post-30988-1272283272_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate i just need the rear 5stud hubs and brake setup.

Are you willing to separate and how much for?

Also interested in the engine loom if its for an rb20det.

Pm me.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...