Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone

Well i had a tune a while back on my car using an Safc/avcr and when i drive it and hit full boost it shows my boost hits 0.77 bar and goes all the way up to 0.90 bar, yesterday i was bored so just scrolled through the settings and noticed learn gear was on so i disabled it, as I’ve heard learn gear causes the boost to change a bit and doesn’t give constant boost? Secondly i went into my boost/duty cycle menu on my avcr and the boost was set on 0.75 bar, so i thought ill try put it to 0.8 bar.. then i took it for a drive, when i full boost it held at 0.8bar but when i hit about 5000rpm it went to 0.90 bar and it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode on the stock ecu so i stopped straight away.

i wound it back to 0.75 and again noticed it holds at 0.75-0.77 bar under 5000rpm then it reaches 0.88 bar above 5000rpm ( i set my avcr so it shows the highest number)..

Later on i was driving home and i had a query as i have a Apexi Safc 2 also. i noticed my fuel/air ratio on idle is at 5.8%, when i start spooling and hit boost under 5000rpm stays at approx 0.9% after 5000rpm or upper area of the rpm range it goes to 0.1%..

To help a bit more my car is a R32 gtst with the following:

Rb25det S2 engine conversion

Stock turbo

Stock ecu

Stock injectors

Straight through exhaust

Pod

R32 Gtr fuel pump

Apexi AVCR

Apexi SAFC

I just have a few questions first being is my car leaning out? Secondly if so could it be because of the R32 gtr pump or another issue?, does anyone know if having VCT can throw off the AVCR that much?

Thanks guys

Ni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318631-whats-up-with-my-car/
Share on other sites

if you got your car tuned on a dyno it should be running good, first point of call i would consult the guy who tuned it.

secondly it sounds like u need to read into how to use the AVCR a little as i think you have your gain/duty set wrong to help you achieve target boost properly.

if you got your car tuned on a dyno it should be running good, first point of call i would consult the guy who tuned it.

secondly it sounds like u need to read into how to use the AVCR a little as i think you have your gain/duty set wrong to help you achieve target boost properly.

hey man, yer just downloaded the pdf for the AVCR now

quote

(it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode)

fuel cut is a big bang (some times) and a sudden loss of power

i doubt it was this

i think you would have been hearing abit of missing (pop pop pop)

if this is the case get your self some new spark plugs gap them to 0.8mm (or buy them pre-gaped)

wind you boost back up!

if it goes pop pop pop again, you have two options.

keep you boost low enough so it doesn't miss

OR

get your self some new coil packs

i use splitfire but there are a few brands most have been covered so do a search.

  • 2 weeks later...
quote

(it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode)

fuel cut is a big bang (some times) and a sudden loss of power

i doubt it was this

i think you would have been hearing abit of missing (pop pop pop)

if this is the case get your self some new spark plugs gap them to 0.8mm (or buy them pre-gaped)

wind you boost back up!

if it goes pop pop pop again, you have two options.

keep you boost low enough so it doesn't miss

OR

get your self some new coil packs

i use splitfire but there are a few brands most have been covered so do a search.

hey man, ah good to know it wasn’t a fuel cut then.. and yer i had changed my spark plugs recently so that wasn’t the problem either, however i found out it was my SAFC so all is good :)

hey i have the same problem with my car its a r32 gtst with the rb25det cant cant find out the problem. if u can help me thx.

hey man, for me it ended up being my SAFC that was set up wrong so i used my friends SAFC settings with the SAME mods as my car, and now the car runs great and it reads the proper way by the fuel/air ratio % actually increasing instead of the other way around..

Good luck man, Ni

Good luck man, Ni

Sounds like you need to adjust/reduce the duty a few % in the 5k rpm range

Because as you say the learn gear was on and it would have changed the boost map.

hey man

yep i turned of learn gear and put the duty down a bit, i think it was my SAFC that was the problem

i am useing a series 2 ecu on a series 1 engine u guys think that could be the problem? and my maf is the rb20det one form the old engine?

hey man

not to sure, but do you mean AFM? not maf? anyways that could be one problem, secondly try plugging in a S1 ecu, i dont see the point of having a s2 ecu if you dont have a Series 2 motor..

ok i will try 2 do all of those things. but this what the car dose it pulls out good but when i hit around the 5000 rpm's it its hiting a fuel or a boost cut i dont know what it is

and it missfires sometimes it sound like pop pop pop and the rpm drops too 0 and the car turns off some times.

ok i will try 2 do all of those things. but this what the car dose it pulls out good but when i hit around the 5000 rpm's it its hiting a fuel or a boost cut i dont know what it is

and it missfires sometimes it sound like pop pop pop and the rpm drops too 0 and the car turns off some times.

hey bro if you mean its hell loud pops and your car starts to jerk i had the same problem and mine was the crank angle sensor plug had a broken clip and had come of slightly and wasn’t making full connection

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...