Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My bro just got his new line and we were intrested to see what the turbo looked like to compare to other bros turbo.

and we noticed that the fins look different and are bent and chiped ?

is this a problem ? do we need a new turbo ?

their doesnt seem to to be and problem when driving, all though it sounds different when it spools up you can hardely hear it, it doesnt make the whistling sounds like the pod but its a different sounds ?

Thanks,

by the way its on a 95' gtst

(i'll post pics later tonight)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31865-damaged-turbo-wheel-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Well if you go two turbos off the same series motor.

then you can bet your dollar it's a bit damaged.

chipped is not all that good.

Fins can have a 'bent' look. it might just be the wheel.

I dunno what the differences are between the two though... series I vs II.

but i think there was something a tad different.

either way for a new one you only looking at $400

hi

I think I might be having a problem with my turbo too...

It looks ok the last time I checked it..

but at higher speeds.. about 200km/h + there's a really loud shhhhhhhhhhh sound... quite unnatural...

not sure whether something's wrong with the turbo or the blow off valve...

I'm running on standard turbos and turbosmart BOV..

anyone experienced this before?

thanks

That turbo has ingested something, but if it still goes, then keep using it, unless you really want to upgrade. These turbos are generally, not very servicable or rebiuldable. But they are quite tuff. It could keep working fine for years to come. Look at it this way, you only found the damage, coz you looked....you didnt hear any strange noises or see oil or anything.

You can if you want, buy a new comp wheel and get it fitted and balanced, but Personally I woudlnt bother, the time and money isnt worth the problem if the wheel fails. I doubt you would notice the drop in power at all.

I have been playing (that should read, trying to fix:P) a couple of rb25det turbos, and have found the following info....

If you break the seal plate, you can't get a new one (oh no!) If you own a lathe, you can make a new one (doing that now actually)

The turbine is not able to be serperated from the shaft, and is balanced as a single unit

The comp wheel is balance as a single unit, and therefore, you can generally swap wheels with not too much hassle (if you dont balance them, you will get a shorter turbo life, but generally, you will get away with it)

IF you pull apart totally the bearings, (they are not captive bearings) the balls will fall out and roll across the floor, into the drain, cracks in the concrete etc etc, bye bye turbo....

If you can feel shaft play sideways or end ways, the bearings are worn, but if your lucky, you can still have some more room to tap in the centre peice of the comp wheel side bearing (under that damn seal plate im afraid, hard to take them out without breaking them) and get rid of that play, and get another 100 000 kays out of a unit.

Worn bearings and side play and end play in the shaft leads to misalignment of the seals, which of course leads to oil leaks, smoke, etc....

by the way, I picked up a second hand turbo for $200 on the weekend and fitted it to my twin turbo rb25dett VL and it fixed my problem.

So as you can see, spending money at a turbo shop rebiulding a stock rb25det turbo is not a financially rewarding thing to do. Its better to just source a second hand one.

I had two good turbos, untill one started leaking oil into the air intake. Upon trying to fix that turbo, i broke the seal plate. Bought a buggered turbo for $70 and broke the seal plate in that trying to get it out too! :P (DOH)

Bought another good turbo for $200 and fitted it and no worries.

Now im making two new seal plates, using two new o rings, and setting up the bearings in those two turbos again, to see if i can get those turbos operational again. If not, ill turf them:P

black smoke is fuel not oil.

why should it boost higher than standard boost? you got a bleed valve hooked up?

If you have and its refusing to boost very high, it could be any number of alot of other things. I've never seen a turbo that is in such a state that it wont boost higher than standard boost, unless its really stuffed (turbine hitting houseing, seized bearings, etc)

They seem to either work fine, or dont.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
×
×
  • Create New...