Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Really need some answers to this as its not right. My engine is a 26/30, only done about 800kms. Makes good power (450rwkw, 18psi pump). I went racing a month ago and first ever run was an 11.8@137. Didnt do any burnout really and 60ft was 2.5! No oil came out of the 1.8l catch can. Second run it filled up my catch can (1.8l) and oil went everywhere! Difference was I did a good burnout (about 7 seconds). Ran 10.4 as 60ft was 1.7 but didnt seem to want to rev over about 5500. That put an end to the day as oil was everywhere.

Made an overflow for the catch can and after i raced it again it has filled both up, so about 2.5 litres really! Also the car didnt want to rev past 5500

Not too much of a mess so emptied the can and filled it up and went again. Second time ran 10.04@137 and I changed to second (powerglide) before 5500 to not hit .

Catch can setup is that I have two -12 lines coming from the back of the rocker covers (not the top like standard but actually coming out from the back of the rocker covers). These run into the catch can. The catch can did have a return (on my first outing) which was plumbed into the oil drain from the back of the head. This oil drain returns into the top left hand side of the sump if standing in front of the car. For my second outing i blocked off the return as i thought it may have been getting blown up into the catch can.

I do have restrictors in the head but am not sure on there exact size?

Where on earth is all this oil coming from?

Please help

hmm does not sound good, if it was fine for the first run i would suspect you may have hurt the engine on the subsequent run. Hard to say without seeing it though.

hmm does not sound good, if it was fine for the first run i would suspect you may have hurt the engine on the subsequent run. Hard to say without seeing it though.

I thought it may have been fine on the first run as i didnt do a burnout?

Maybe the 7 second burnout was enough to fill it and then in the run it overfilled?

How does oil get into the head if the rings are stuffed?

And if I dont have the correct restrictors could they push that much oil into the head?

And again, is the rear drain on the head going into the correct side of the sump? Its going into the intake side?

have you sorted out why it doesnt want to rev past 5500?

and sounds like the breathers are in a spot which helps fill the catch can.. being at the back of the head if its filling up while your flying downt he strip gravity is goin to force the oil into your breather lines, but still does not sound good

for a start the fittings on the back not top of the covers are the issue.

your loosing the whole volume of the rocker cover. also it would be a good idea to use your rear fittings as drains and the stock breathers to the catch can.

when you did the build did you install oil restrictors?

sounds like its typically pumping its sump up to the rocker covers

read were he has the breathers coming off the cam covers, its not even getting a chance to drain back down the external return cause its getting forced straight out the 2x -12/-10 fittings into the catch can.

You should have left the return in, but put it on the exhaust side of the sump. The vacuum from the crank rotation will suck the oil from the return. The inlet side is the pressure side, and as such it would have been acting like or trying to act like a crankcase vent. It very well could have been pushing oil up there intermittently, but as pointed out having the rocker cover breathers out back down low will be letting alot of oil out. However, if you had the return back to the sump, it probably wouldnt have mattered.

Whats my solution do you think?

Would it be possible to get away with running these two -12 lines and tee them into the return line from the back of the head to the sump? Therefore all that oil will go straight back into the sump? Or is the oil all frothy and full of air and needing to be condensed a bit before returning to the sump? I could then run some lines off these to the catch can so it is still vented?

Just dont want to have to take off the cam covers and bugger around with them thats all.

so the rb26 rocker covers have two fttings at the top of the head at the back,

1 inlet and outet on the left and one inlet and outlet on the right,

if i took these out and fitted a spedflow fitting to each, connected these to a catch can with a breather this would be fine?

or do i need to plumb one back into the oil return (turbo)?

Whats my solution do you think?

Would it be possible to get away with running these two -12 lines and tee them into the return line from the back of the head to the sump? Therefore all that oil will go straight back into the sump? Or is the oil all frothy and full of air and needing to be condensed a bit before returning to the sump? I could then run some lines off these to the catch can so it is still vented?

Just dont want to have to take off the cam covers and bugger around with them thats all.

Put them back to standard, add mines baffles, then put it back together. Simple.

The way you have it looks neat, but at allthe expense of oil issues? Not worth it IMO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...