Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i was just trying to figure out whats the difference in the r32 GTR and the s13 rear end

#1- i know the GTR rear is stronger than the s13, am i right?

#2- is the r32 GTR rear end wider than the s13 rear end ? (if so how much wider)

#3- whats the difference in the gear ratios

The reason i need this info is -

i was going to change the rear suspension and diff in my project car to a complete s13 rear end

then a few people was telling me that i should just use the r32 GTR rear end as its stronger

i can locate the r32GTR and the s13 rear from a friend easy so the price does not matter

just looking for the most reliable rear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319187-s13-vs-r32-gtr-rear-end/
Share on other sites

The GTR has a better diff. Unsure of ratio at this time of morning but is a stronger unit overall.

Also if you will be using the hubs the GTRs are alloy saving around 5kg in unsprung weight which is a huge advantage.

Whats it going into?

actually, they both run an r200 diff so both able as each other to handle the same power. the gtr one does have a factory mechanical 2 way centre while s13 is viscous LSD.

gtr driveshafts are stronger

gtr hubs are alloy

they have the same geometery including the poor front mounting point for LCA (fixed in R33/S14 onwards)

actually, they both run an r200 diff so both able as each other to handle the same power. the gtr one does have a factory mechanical 2 way centre while s13 is viscous LSD.

gtr driveshafts are stronger

gtr hubs are alloy

they have the same geometery including the poor front mounting point for LCA (fixed in R33/S14 onwards)

Can you elaborate a bit? If this is the case i will go pick up a later model subframe and transfer over my gtr gear! (is this possible?)

there is a minor difference in the location or the front end of the LCA between 32 and 33 subframes, on the 33 it is about 2cm lower. Not a big deal unless you are chasing the last 1/10th in lap times

if this is going into a gtst or s13 you wont be able to use the alloy hub backing plate as the shock mounts are different the way around this is you will need to purchase r32 gtr rear coilovers pretty sure the track (widths) are the same and you will have better brakes and diff with the gtr diff cradle is stronger also the gtr cradle would be your best option althougha lil morefiddly to install

THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS

my project vehicle is a RB powered 1984 Mitsubishi sigma, witch originally can with a live axle rear end (Banjo type)

so i was going to install a complete s13 rear end

So now that i know the GTR rear will be stronger & about the same track most of my problems are solved

will keep y'all up to date with my project

the other thing is ill be using a Custom one piece drive shaft will that be a problem or it will be all good ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...