Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im Currently looking for a Non-Turbo auto R33 and am looking at the cheapst way of getting one. I know that there are some around but that all the best condition ones are in Japan so im probably better off getting one from over there but if i look at it paying for freight and broking and then compliance and all other associated costs it might end up costing the same or even more.

Also being on my P's i know that the cops will try and pick up anything on any car i drive so again there are accosiated problems.

any advice or comments welcome.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319335-is-importing-worth-it/
Share on other sites

We would absolutely agree. When you are looking at cars around this price range it's much better to look locally, especially for this sort of vehicle which is not really sought after because you can get some real bargains locally sometimes.

Keep in mind that importing a car has set costs regardless of what you buy, so for example if you were given an R33 for free in Japan it would still cost you over $6,500 by the time you get it registered after paying Japanese inland costs (FOB fee), ocean freight, customs clearance, import duty & GST, brokers fees, SEVS compliance, new tyres, roadworthy and registration costs ... and considering there are about a dozen automatic R33's (some turbo and some non-turbo) around already registered in Australia with asking prices around this value then you can certainly get one locally without too much hassle.

100% agree with craig. I reckon by the time you import, pay a broker, pay an exporter in japan their FOB costs, pay entry costs (tax, clearance etc), pay compliance and then get a car registered you are looking at approx $10K for a car you got for free in japan.

my advice to people is basically this. if the car sells for less than $20K in aus then it's not worth importing as the fixed costs of importing are making up to great a portion of your total outlay for the car. example, you buy a car for $1000 in japan. it will cost you about $11K on the road in aus. but it's still a $1,000 car with all the nastiness that that entails.

there are some exceptions to my rule that fall just under the $20K mark, so I'd probably revise it in some cases to $18K or even $15K for some models but a car that sells here for less than $10K I wouldn't even have to think about. it's 100% not worth importing.

iron chef's advice about where to buy is sound too. in sydney before P-plate restrictions people would not even import NA R32s or R33s and you couldn't give one away. once the law changed all of a sudden turbo R33s were worth practically nothing and in many cases an NA R33 (especially a manual) would be worth more than a similar spec and condition turbo model which was nuts. buying one in a state with no such restrictions makes some sense but only if you can really save some decent money as transport, new registration etc will all cost $$$.

Im Currently looking for a Non-Turbo auto R33 and am looking at the cheapst way of getting one. I know that there are some around but that all the best condition ones are in Japan so im probably better off getting one from over there but if i look at it paying for freight and broking and then compliance and all other associated costs it might end up costing the same or even more.

Also being on my P's i know that the cops will try and pick up anything on any car i drive so again there are accosiated problems.

any advice or comments welcome.

I have a mate that may be able to help.

thanks for the advice.

I will start looking local now. though im in no rush and I think any line i get will probs end up as a project car as the car i now have runs really well and my only want for a new one comes from my love of imports. at least its good to know that if your on a budget not to give in to the lure of cheap cars in japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...