Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone interested in a Sydney Group Buy on Window Tinting ?


Recommended Posts

thats not very fair guys.....its not like he limits his times that hes available...i was told that i could drop my car off the nite b4, and hed have it ready 1st thing (the day b4 mine, hed gotten up @ 415 to do a car)

not very nice 2 bman either...he went 2 heaps of trouble with this one (robert couldnt believe how much organising he had done..the receipts, code numbers, emails etc)

ah well, looks like now you get to miss out on top quality tint at a very reasonable price

  • Replies 222
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ohh well i am booked in tomorrow for my line as he done the NX and he done an excellent job. I have never had tints done this proffesionaly.

Thanks for organizing everything B-Man love ya work

Too bad for all the No Show guys you missed out on an excellent deal

And it will look bad on all of us if word gets around

:Bang:

i got tha 15% quantum 2...(got it done abt a fortnite ago...commy, not a line tho)...how nice does it look?....(i managed 2 scratch mine 2 day with my uni bag.....not happy jan)...guess ill have 2 wait 4 the next group buy and get it redone :D

For ****s sake... why must people rub our club name in the mud... B-man has put in heaps of effort for this and his reward... AB-SO-LUT-LY nothing... he did this for you people out there to benifit as he loves Skylines so much... hell, he didn't even get a skyline tinted... It is simple people... if your not 100% sure you can do it, THEN DON"T BLOODY SAY YOU CAN Say you would like to and will let people know or say you can't afford it or just don't say anything... Like me... I was too poor at the time to do it... nothing wrong with that.

However, I'm now not too poor, and if it will make a difference I will have my car done if the offer might still be available to pick up on of the no shows spots?

/:)

I'll keep this short and sweet squint.gif

1. They need to learn accountability for their actions.

2. Ban them from future Group Buys.

3. Name names.

Well i admit im one of those people that pulled out, BUT i had a very legitimate reason for pulling it and i did not wait till the last minute to tell Robert, i actually called him up and explained my reason to him and also emailing Brendan about it. I was so looking forward to getting my windows tinted, even couldnt sleep some nights because i couldnt wait, But unfortunately because of a particular incident, im in deep deep financial trouble and i'm looking to re-schedule the tints. But for the others who pulled out on the last minute and just didnt show up, come on guys, thats so slack..and very irresponsible of you. At least i took the time out to call Robert and email Brendan explaining my situation

B-man im really sorrry for what happened and thanks for the offer.

pm sent.

cheers

GuiLTy

Guilty - Thanks for your two e-mails explaining your situation - I have spoken to Robert and as soon as you fix a time & date (with me), he is happy to reschedule for *you* only. You already have PM from me with the details.

Get back to me ASAP OK.

Cheers,

Here's a pic of my car with the tints:

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/r33tints1.jpg

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/r33tints2.jpg

Doesn't it make the car look fullee?

Oh and Robert is a nice enough guy.

T.

:werd:

oh when are you getting your chromed spinners? I want your Volks...the spinners will make your car even more fullee maaate. :(

Tony: What percentage tint is that?

It's apparently 18% which is what everyone here is gone for.

I make no claim as to legality.

I did not tint my back window. I have glasses like many of you IT nerds so I don't have the best sight. I kept the back window with the original well faded tint so I can see all the cornholes behind me.

Notice how you can just about see all the way into the back screen but the sides are like dark.

T.

im gettin my done on tuesday 23rd

i probally get 18% cybertint as well.........

jus wondeirn wtf would happen if cops pulled me ova

wat should i say

lol

I brought the car as it is?

I'd be more worried about other mods you have if any.

I think im going to invest in an engineers cert very soon for insurance purposes

yeah thats what i was thinking, if they try to defect me for anythin im gonna act like the biggest idiot, suckin the cops **** on the way as well. and pretendin i have no idea wat he is talkin about and say i bought the car like dat..

got me out of it last time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...