Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

when i hit boost anywhere above 14psi and change the bov gives a slight flutter

bov is stock rb25, turbo is hks 2540

is this a problem with the bov, ie should i be concerned?

cheers for any help

lucas

The flutter sound = form of compressor surge and is bad for turbo. It can mean BOV is not opening quick enough / properly. Usually the flutter sound is heard through podfilter. Check vacuum hose to top of stock BOV for leaks, as that can make stock BOV not open quick enough / properly. Or it happens after modifying stock BOV.

This is what the worst form of compressor surge that you can encounter sounds like on a R33 25T and is related to turbo (can damage engine, turbo) -

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=synapt.../25/nCj6Spwl1CU

I used to get flutter sound at low boost levels with modified stock BOV. My solution was a Synchronic BOV from USA, which is a piston type (no diaphram), pull type type (stock Skyline BOV is a push type, so get pushed open under boost) BOV which reacts faster due to having no diaphram and doesn't leak under boost due to being a pull type BOV. Synchronic BOV opens as low as 0.5psi on boost gauge on a Skyline, which gets addictive. Also get a noticeable increase in throttle response, transitional response from engine when Synchronic BOV is recirculated over modified recirculated stock BOV and engine feels better off boost.

On a Skyline it sounds similar to this car in link below, but it's vented to atmosphere on that car (louder) -

Alot of people say you don't get a increase in hp from changing a BOV. But you do if BOV is leaking, as shown on this 500rwhp+ turbocharged Corvette in link below -

The A/F ratio plot for that Corvette shows a slightly leaner A/F ratio (I gather where the extra 24rwhp or so came from), so you know more boost is reaching engine. It also backs up what I have felt on my car.

Synapse Engineering sell the Synchronic BOV -

http://www.synapseengineering.com/

Edited by SKYPER
Hope you have your flame suit ready...

thanks skyper for your reply, it might be just not opening quick enough. i will check the hose you mentioned and maybe another bov.

sheriff could you please explain what you mean by that...thanks

Personally I think this is a very legit question, and see no reason for him to get flamed.

Mate clearly your stock blow off is having some sort of issue, it shouldnt get any flutter. If you have any mates with another stock skyline you might want to try swap BOVs just to test.

Alternatively make sure ur vac source is good and its not jammed etc, take it off and have a good look at everything.

Personally I think this is a very legit question, and see no reason for him to get flamed.

Mate clearly your stock blow off is having some sort of issue, it shouldnt get any flutter. If you have any mates with another stock skyline you might want to try swap BOVs just to test.

Alternatively make sure ur vac source is good and its not jammed etc, take it off and have a good look at everything.

thanks for your reply scott...that's basically what i needed to know.

ill try another stock bov and see how that goes :blush:

cheers

Its just a sign that your stock BOV cannot release anymore pressure and needs to be replaced with a GTR one or something.

Mine has been doing it for years and my turbo is 100%.

The noise is annoying though. Once the RB25\30 goes in, I am going to stick maybe even 2 x GTR ones on there.

HKS2540 turbo = mild compressor surge (due to the relatively large size difference between the compressor and the turbine)

I wouldn't worry about it at all. When/if you replace the turbo the issue will go away. I wouldn't even bother changing BOV's as it will probably be a waste of time and money.

thanks for your reply scott...that's basically what i needed to know.

ill try another stock bov and see how that goes :)

cheers

You're pushing too much air for the stock BOV to handle. If you replace it, it will remain the same.

You need a bigger bore aftermarket plumb back if you wanna eliminate it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...