Rb30 Block Modifications

[hpt_simon]

so,

problem here is, there is no experienced machinists in any sort of racing here in spain.

so i will have to attack this myself, so, when grout filing, how do i do it, do i just remoove all the lower core plugss, and fill heach one until it is about to reach to hole?, so i just do one? or do i do each so it fill equally? do i just fill the ones on he exhaust side, or take all engine ones out?

this car will be producing around the 800bhp and lots of revs, will this be any sort of handycap on the track with temperatures? not shure what ambien tems you get there in summer, but its around 30-35ºC here in summer

thanks

simon

[datsqik]

I leave all the welsh plugs in as you will at least need to fill to the top of the lower welsh plugs. I usually replace them all with new stainless plugs after I have hot tanked the block before I hardblok them. You can buy hardblok as either a half fill (usually 2 small bags but sometimes 1 big bag) or you can buy it as full fill which is 2 large bags. Once the block is clean and welsh plugs in place the block needs to be upright and level preferably on an engine stand. Mix the hardblok to manufacturers recommendations in small batches as it goes off fairly quickly. I prefer to do the job with 2 people using a small funnel and some wire to help get it thru the funnel and then level it out at the bottom of the block. I just pour some down a water gallery at each cylinder then work it around with the wire. I just work my way around the block. Its best to bore/hone and deck the block a few days after it has set.

[datsqik]

If a block is to be bored/honed using a torque plate or not then hardblok should be used before hand and same goes for align honing of the crank tunnel. If sleeving a 30 block I would probably fit the sleeves first then use some hardblok between the cylinders with the engine on its side with the welsh plugs out. Do one side then the other after the first side is hard enough to turn the block on its other side. The reason I do this is that the standard cylinders end up fairly thin towards the top of the block between the cylinders when machining to suit the sleeves and in some spots can break thru to the water jacket. By adding some hardblok in these areas can add some strength back into the block. Once that is done you can fit the welsh plugs back in and do a normal short fill or a full fill for an all out drag engine. You can then bore/hone the sleeves and deck the block etc.

[nsmo30tt]

would you say sleeving the block benefits it strength wise? I haven't seen any for sale and unsure of price so was just wondering if it would be worth the time and effort

[datsqik]

I dont think that sleeving would strengthen the block at all but it does strengthen the cylinder itself as the darton sleeves are much higher quality than the standard cast bore.

[[200]]

  datsqik said:

I dont think that sleeving would strengthen the block at all but it does strengthen the cylinder itself as the darton sleeves are much higher quality than the standard cast bore.

do you use the rb26 sleeves on the 30s?

[jas/slo32]

Here is a block mod i wouldnt recomend to anyone

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

LOL I had a good chuckle.

Does save weight though

[Cartman]

  jas/slo32 said:

Here is a block mod i wouldnt recomend to anyone

nice breather holes.

[nsmo30tt]

well I have seen darton sleeves for RB30 and was thinking of getting some one day, from what you said I gather that you could run higher boost more safely as the cylinders are stronger?

[hpt_simon]

do we have to do that to every cylinder?¿

[hpt_simon]

oh, another question, how would a block / girdle brace compare to half block fill?

im very scared about filling up half the block and doing it wrong and ending up overheating every race meating

[Swiper the Fox]

  hpt_simon said:

oh, another question, how would a block / girdle brace compare to half block fill?

im very scared about filling up half the block and doing it wrong and ending up overheating every race meating

Simon...you only do up to the bottom of the welsh plugs...nowhere near half fill. Read what i have already written previously. Harmonic vibration and the added stresses of the front diff twisting them is what cracks the blocks....unless you can fit a brace that is stronger than the bracing and ribbing already built into an RB26 block then i really doubt how effective it could be.

  Swiper the Fox said:

Some of the circuit racers have commented that they have lower logged temps after grouting. When you really think about how a thermostat controlled cooling system works it actually makes sense.

It may have you running a few degrees cooler mate.

Edited May 20, 2010 by Swiper the Fox

[datsqik]

Darton do sleeves for the 30 which is a bit longer than the 26 sleeves.

[hpt_simon]

perfetc, thanks swiper.

so how do you apply the block filler personally? do you take the welsh plugs out, or have a measured amout of filler and pour it through the top of the water outlets?

thanks gain

simon

[Swiper the Fox]

  hpt_simon said:

perfetc, thanks swiper.

so how do you apply the block filler personally? do you take the welsh plugs out, or have a measured amout of filler and pour it through the top of the water outlets?

thanks gain

simon

take the plugs out so you can monitor whats going on...leave the front one thats lower near the thermostat in. Mix up hardblock...using a funnel and some mig wire carefully pour small amounts at a time down the water jacket holes. You will have to use the wire to help it through the funnel and also work it around outside of the bores as it doesn't flow very well. Make sure block is nice and level and leave for a few days till nice and hard.

there is a couple of other little things i also do that are not particularly necessary but thats enough info to get the job done.

practice on another block is a good idea...especially one that has punched a rod out through the bottom that will only end up as scrap.

[T04GTR]

no need for main studs.

[T04GTR]

so do we know if any rb30 rods can come with pressure fed wrist pins? i only ask cause of a very tough 26 i seen stripped, was drysumped and the little ends were all f**ked. one had punched the bronze out of the rod and had hammerd the piston pin hole in the piston to the point bits of piston were squashed out like the little end..

[Swiper the Fox]

  T04GTR said:

so do we know if any rb30 rods can come with pressure fed wrist pins? i only ask cause of a very tough 26 i seen stripped, was drysumped and the little ends were all f**ked. one had punched the bronze out of the rod and had hammerd the piston pin hole in the piston to the point bits of piston were squashed out like the little end..

to much tune-up there mate.

hi again...like ships in the night

[NXTIME]

  T04GTR said:

so do we know if any rb30 rods can come with pressure fed wrist pins? i only ask cause of a very tough 26 i seen stripped, was drysumped and the little ends were all f**ked. one had punched the bronze out of the rod and had hammerd the piston pin hole in the piston to the point bits of piston were squashed out like the little end..

Was Herman driving it?