Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have this problem with my 1997 R33 GTS25T, the battery keeps draining itself, Ive checked the terminals, checked for earth leaks etc. Ive even got a brand spanking new battery and still the same.....any suggestions ?

At the moment, I have to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery to stop it draining itself whenever I park it for an extended periods of time and that's a pain in the back side.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Cheers.

Edited by SerenaM
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319886-r33-battery-keeps-going-flat/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with the light in the boot. I ended up putting my camera in there and recorded after I closed and sure enough - light didn't go out.

If you have a multimeter (or friend with one) that reads a few amps you can see how much draw is occuring the next time you pull the battery cable. It goes "in-line" between the battery cable and the battery to read how many amps are being drawn. If there is much draw at all - like 1 amp or more, with everything off then you've got something wrong.

Generally look for anything that is causing a drain on the power, alarms, lights etc. Try disconnecting them one by one or pulling the fuses that supply power.

I have the same problem with my 33

My boot light is not on

I have an aftermarket alarm

its odd though a few months ago I never had this problem

I left my car at the top of the driveway for about a month because I wanted to drive my 31 around

I decided to change back,

I knew my battery was going to be flat so I got it charged up by autobarn

put it in left it over night and it started no problem for a week it was fine then it just started with the

battery problems over night and sometimes I drive to work, park it at 9am and then go to start it at 6pm and it sometimes struggles to start

I think it could be one of a few things

Ground - wire could be loose or damaged not giving a full connection

alternator - might not be charging correctly or loose wire or needs new brushes

corrosion on wiring might need a clean or change

short in the system or bad wire

Got my mate at Autobarn to check the alternator

my alternator is charging at 14v and is working perfectly

he said that there might be a current leak in the system

also been told to take out each fuse one by one and test the connections with a multimeter

might have to try this

If I cant work it out then I will take it to an auto-electrician

Edited by DRFT-ME
I knew my battery was going to be flat so I got it charged up by autobarn

put it in left it over night and it started no problem for a week it was fine then it just started with the

battery problems over night and sometimes I drive to work, park it at 9am and then go to start it at 6pm and it sometimes struggles to start

I think it could be one of a few things

Ground - wire could be loose or damaged not giving a full connection

alternator - might not be charging correctly or loose wire or needs new brushes

corrosion on wiring might need a clean or change

short in the system or bad wire

nope. dud battery. if you leave a lead acid battery flat it will start to sulfate immediately, and after a few days it will be cactus. it will never hold a charge again after that, the capacity will be minimal compared to when it was new. replace it.

to thread starter with a brand new battery - you need a multimeter on 20 amp range in series with the negative lead going back to the battery. Only do this with the car off and no accessories running - it will tell you what is drawing current. tape the bonnet pin (for the alarm) down and arm the alarm. then disarm and see if it's any different. then start pulling fuses until you work out which fuses are causing your current draw and that will narrow down the problem. you can pull the fuses one by one seeing the impact on the meter and then put it back. and keep a note of which fuses dropped the current draw and the amount of drop. you can then work out what's responsible for sending the battery flat too quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...