Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I only have one key and it is really worn, i have a spare blank that i got some time ago but for the $400 or so it cost me from nissan i dont want to have it wruined by using the old worn key to make a copy.

I want to know how to get my ignition barrel out so i can get the waffers out to work out the code of the key.

I done this my old honda prelude and it was qiute simple but i just cant work it out for the skyline, on the honda all you had to do put the key in turn it to the on possition push in a pin and pull out the key with the barrel on it.

You didnt have to unbolt it from the steering coloum to get the inner barrel out.

If anyone knows how to do this on the skyline your help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319921-r34-ignition-barrel-removal/
Share on other sites

You can use a worn out key to trace a new key to be cut.

I did this two weeks ago, and the newly cut key comes out just as sharp (it wont be worn like the 'trace' key).

Not sure about the 34s, assuming it's the same as my Cefiro, it's a BITCH of a task.

Dash out, unplug alot of wiring around the steering collumn, and drill through / extract 2 security bolts.

My suggestion:

Use the worn out key to cut a new one, it'll be fine.

I have to admit im a bit of a perfectionist, some might say OCD.

But after having the honda key barrel fail prematurely, due to the use of a worn key and previous owners having to much sh*t hanging off their key chain. This cost $540 to replace the barrel so I'd rather have the nissan key cut properly.

When I replaced the honda key barrel, all i had to do was put in a working key, turn it to the on position, push in a lever and the key pulled out with the barrel on it (separate to the housing that is bolted to the steering coloum with the two security bolts that the heads break off when they are done up)

This enables you have the key barrel re-keyed in the event say a thief or someone has a copy of your key.

Ive done it on a honda, ford, holden, suzuki, so i would have thought there is a straight forward way to get the nissan one out.

I would just pull out the door or boot barrel but i would be pissed off if i go to the effort of getting one of those out only to find out it might not have the same number of pins as the ignition barrel ie. 8 points instead of 10.

I know if i got the current key i have copied it would work but i know it wouldnt be as accurate as getting it cut to code, when i replaced the honda key barrel i had one key cut to code and went back a week later to get a spare made, asked the guy to cut it to the code and he said nuhh it will be just as good on the normal copy machine. Just cos he couldn't be f**ked setting up the other machine. and i could see with my eyes that it was miles off let alone measuring the difference, you could feel the normal copy girnded the barrel so it went in the bin and i told the to do another one properly.

I like doing things right the first time and not having to fix stuff ups later cos it wasnt done right in the first place.

If anyone could shed some light on how to remove the barrel without geting out a drill, dremel etc to remove the whole housing i would be extremly gratefull.

Sorry for the life story, just trying to explain why i want to do it this way.

Like I said man, security bolts...the only way to get them off is with a drill...they don't have a pattern in the head for a screwdriver, they're rounded off.

Look up security / sheer bolts.

It's alot easier to get the door locks out...the boot lock is probably the easiest of them all.

The barrel is in with sheer bolts so it can't be stolen, so it shouldnt be "easy" to remove.

I still don't get why you think cutting a key is half assed, even give Nissan your VIN number and they can get a key already cut (if they have that VIN on index).

Like I said man, security bolts...the only way to get them off is with a drill...
Cold chisel, bash a straight screw slot in the head, unscrew. Or you might need to drift it with a pin punch. But you definitely don't need to drill it out.

Depends what tools you can fit in there without taking the dash out, and depends how adjsutable the collumn is on 34s.

When I replaced the barrell on the Ceffy, on the bottom one I used the drill to unwind it by wedging the drill bit in between the bolt and the hole...but couldnt do that with the upper bolt, and not enough clearance for screwdrivers/chisels to get in there.

he said nuhh it will be just as good on the normal copy machine

That is pretty much true, a key cutting machine only copies and cuts at whole number depths between 0 & 9 a slightly worn key will still register closest to the nearest hole number ie the correct code, if it doesn't the key won't work full stop.

They don't 'trace' around a key as most people think, there is a bit more to it.

Edited by 666DAN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...