Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its meant to be plumbed after the TB, which is pretty small from memory on a GTR.

I'm fairly sure you will need a standalone unit with a vac port to run a hose to, but I am open for correction as Ive never done one personally.

Not sure on a GTR, but on my R33 GTST, the MAP Sensor is located at the top right of the engine bay, right next to the ABS unit, and a T piece on a hose that comes from the plenum to the BOV!? (Cant rember where exactly it goes, but heads in that direction). I shall take a photo when i can and highlight it for you.

do you want the quick nasty way or the right way?

Quick-nasty: thread the map sensor into the top joining manifold where the VCT valve is normally.

Right way: tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor.

this is unfortunately the correct way to do it. requires removal of intake manifold to tap vacuum ports behind throttle plates.

you can plumb into the balance tube and it will work but reading is not as accurate.

do you want the quick nasty way or the right way?

Quick-nasty: thread the map sensor into the top joining manifold where the VCT valve is normally.

Right way: tap two threads into the center throttle plate after each throttle blade, then T them together into your map sensor.

this is unfortunately the correct way to do it. requires removal of intake manifold to tap vacuum ports behind throttle plates.

you can plumb into the balance tube and it will work but reading is not as accurate.

Balance tube is fine as you will most likely throttle pressure tune it anyway. You will get the same signalfrom the balance pipe as you would drilling and tapping into the manifold.

  • Like 1

Mine is teed off the line to the fuel pressure regulator. From what I can tell, this is also at the same pressure as the rear take-off for the factory boost gauge. I'm tempted to tee it off there so it is more stealth.

I am not using the PCV valve, can i use this port on the balance tube? I also need to plumb in the clutch and brake boosters I think they need to be after throttles too. and was saving the big thread for them. If this is not the case i can run them off the plenum easy enough and run the haltech from that port

I am not running AAC valve so have lost a lot of connections. I have no intention of reinstalling it.

ok..little bit off topic but as its my topic i will give it a shot

Here is a pic of the standard setup, I was wondering if anyone is aware of the workings of the aac valve.

My idea is to run the clutch and brake booster from a tee'd line on the two red hoses, assuming that they are straight from the balance bar, meaning the yellow part is just a vacum reservoir so to speak in standard form and not valved off in any way.

fyi pic is not my car, just one i found. I dont actually have an aac valve to use, and don't really want one as it is a track only car i don't care if it idles high

post-26632-1273460847_thumb.jpg

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 years later...

I know this is an old thread but I want to see if there are better ways to connect other than the Apexi way or the PVC way...

how about on the balance tube 1 tap at each end and T them together? I want to keep the stock PVC Valve...

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...