Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so im bored and thought of a diy water spray kit that doesnt need water pumps.

Basically you use the pressure from the cold side to pressurise a small container that holds water.

Once boost is hit (17psi) a 1 way valve(to stop water getting sucked into the system) set to 14psi opens up to pressurise the container fromt the top where it is pushed through a hose at the bottom and to another 1 way valve then into sprayers.

Ive made a a shitty paint diagram just to show you what i mean.

im pretty sure my theory is correct but if anyone has any input on this setup then feel free to share.

Cheers, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320189-ic-water-spray-setup/
Share on other sites

Some inovative thinking here and if 15 psi (or thereabouts) was sufficient, I don't see why you couldn't use boost pressure to fill an accumulator with pressurised air which in turn would pressurise a water resevoir feeding sprays.

The trouble is that for really fine mists, which gives the best cooling efficiency, you want pressures at an order of magnitude higher than this (i.e. ~150 psi).

I really admire people like you, you sit and think of things which arent done yet; it sounds great in theory but true that there probably aint enough air displaced to pressurise a container that would hold enough water; a syringe maybe

Again a nice idea which is how people invent new products, keep using that brain of yours.

Thanks everyone for the kind comments. Yeah those were the first two things I was thinking that would possibly go wrong.Anyways thanks for everyones input it's times like these I appreciate sites like this and users who aren't here to just down people and their ideas.

Cheers, Chris

Should work but i think you have the 1 way valves around the wrong way IMO

your setup currently

1. air wont pressurise the water till 14+psi. i dont see an issue here.

2. one way vale to stop water flowing out?? wouldn't this also stop water flowing out even when the presser is over 14psi??

i would use 2 pressure valves or at least 1 after the water tank before the sprayers

but something much easier is to use a 12v water pump

The other thing is, spraying the core while on boost isnt really going to net you anything.

The core needs to be cold before hand so it can obsorb more heat. Theres a big IC sprayer article floating around where a guy did temperature testing with them. Basically you need to be on full boost for a hell of a long time for there to be any real raise in intake temps.

Im guessing thats why Auto sprayers on EVO's etc spray under brakes.. so the core cools down more for the NEXT time you nail it :D Not cool-as-you-go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...