1/4 Mile Question:

[adis]

Cmon man you wanna have your car running decent times and you dont want to get a decent ecu and tune a front mount, thats one of the first things youd want to get let alone looking at your suspension and tyre issues after if you want to improve your times even more.

You are right, front mount would help. Thing is, i had all that and i kept on getting done by cops (went wrong way about it, doing up the car), so im being extra careful this time. Im not after any serious power anyway.

[femno]

How do you know its safe?

Did you run a knock box?

AFRs aint everything.

At the end of the day, Jap Remap = Worse than Factory ECU tune, in all circumstances.

[R31Nismoid]

^^ +10

Im on crack? ill ignore that just be careful my friend...im not here to insulted, just asked for opinion.

I took it to a tuner like your self, he chucked it on a dyno and thats the result i got.

So that is all?

Just a couple runs on a dyno and a AFR check?

I honestly hope that isn't the case... as that'sm hardly a decent test given the circumstances and your setup

[adis]

How do you know its safe?

Did you run a knock box?

AFRs aint everything.

At the end of the day, Jap Remap = Worse than Factory ECU tune, in all circumstances.

AFRs are safe, no knock box.

[adis]

^^ +10

So that is all?

Just a couple runs on a dyno and a AFR check?

I honestly hope that isn't the case... as that'sm hardly a decent test given the circumstances and your setup

Well how would you check? I thought the main thing to look out for is AFR's...

[R31Nismoid]

Sadly that is not.

What happens after you get some heat soak into it all?

Say a 15min run up through the hills (faily common for most skyline owners). The Inlet temps could be through the roof and doing some quite serious damage as a result mate.

Without proper tuning, setting up, monitoring ... when running aftermarket turbos without the proper supporting mods especially, you are just asking for something to go wrong.

It could be knocking hard due to offensive intake temps @ WOT and you wouldn't even know it until you blow piston rings out the ass end of the exhaust.

[adis]

Sadly that is not.

What happens after you get some heat soak into it all?

Say a 15min run up through the hills (faily common for most skyline owners). The Inlet temps could be through the roof and doing some quite serious damage as a result mate.

Without proper tuning, setting up, monitoring ... when running aftermarket turbos without the proper supporting mods especially, you are just asking for something to go wrong.

It could be knocking hard due to offensive intake temps @ WOT and you wouldn't even know it until you blow piston rings out the ass end of the exhaust.

I guess first thing is first, cooler. Ill have to get rid of pod and chuck the stock box in there, as i dont want problems with cops.

[Harey]

I guess first thing is first, cooler. Ill have to get rid of pod and chuck the stock box in there, as i dont want problems with cops.

If your making the right mph for your power level whats the problem with the tune? If it was pinging and doing bad things, surely it wouldnt run the correct mph?

Regarding your quarter mile time, the 60' launch time is quite poor. The general rule is any improvement in the 60' time is doubled off the ET. So say if you lost 0.2 off your 60' time you would loose 0.4 seconds off your ET! A very big gain! Plus its about how you launch and how your suspension transfers the power so not something to be overly worried about.

If you do want more power to run a higher mph:

1st stage I would recommend what I have, std airbox, return flow fmic so not cutting holes + a nistune ecu. Nistune was $800 for ecu all tuned up, and because its only touching the internals of the ecu there is nothing for the cops to find.

Your only decision is whether to go the next step with some injectors and a Z32 so you can get the most out of the hiflow. Cops wont find a Z32 afm or larger injectors.

[Harey]

At the end of the day, Jap Remap = Worse than Factory ECU tune, in all circumstances.

Trent just posted that its basically the same as a factory tune?

What if it just removes the speed restriction and the rich and retard settings allowing you to run higher boost?

[R31Nismoid]

So what? The factory mapping was not designed for 16psi out of a aftermarket turbo now was it?

At least the factory ECU shuts down - this is a safeguard, hence a jap remap is worse as it does not shut down, infact it couldn't care less.

[adis]

If your making the right mph for your power level whats the problem with the tune? If it was pinging and doing bad things, surely it wouldnt run the correct mph?

Regarding your quarter mile time, the 60' launch time is quite poor. The general rule is any improvement in the 60' time is doubled off the ET. So say if you lost 0.2 off your 60' time you would loose 0.4 seconds off your ET! A very big gain! Plus its about how you launch and how your suspension transfers the power so not something to be overly worried about.

If you do want more power to run a higher mph:

1st stage I would recommend what I have, std airbox, return flow fmic so not cutting holes + a nistune ecu. Nistune was $800 for ecu all tuned up, and because its only touching the internals of the ecu there is nothing for the cops to find.

Your only decision is whether to go the next step with some injectors and a Z32 so you can get the most out of the hiflow. Cops wont find a Z32 afm or larger injectors.

Spot on!

[adis]

So what? The factory mapping was not designed for 16psi out of a aftermarket turbo now was it?

At least the factory ECU shuts down - this is a safeguard, hence a jap remap is worse as it does not shut down, infact it couldn't care less.

Ohh im back to MINES topic again (sick of it).

Please, Explain to me how factory ECU will perform better than MINES ecu on 12 psi.

Mods:

• Split fire coil pack
  
• Turbotech controller set to 12psi
  
• Apexi cooler
  
• K&N Filter
  
• Full exaust
  
• Greddy blow off
  
• Mines ECU
  
• Stock turbo, fuel and everything else.
  

-This map here, there is nothign wrong with it is there? Not too rich not too lean? You cannot tell me that you will get a graph like this from factory ecu so please dont tell me "there is bugger all difference", thats absolute rubbish.

Even when i just bought it, i felt the difference, so again, dont tell me there is no difference.

[adis]

Trent just posted that its basically the same as a factory tune?

Trent is WRONG.

[Cowboy1600]

Generally, 100mph is a flat 14 in a 1500kg street car.

Did you have traction issues?

I'll be surprised if you really are getting over 200kW at the wheels. I'll bet it's more like 170ish which would make your time about smack on the money.

If you do have 220kW then you must have been spinning hard off the line. Try lower tyre pressures and a big smokey burnout to get some heat into em.

But then if you were spinning off the line you would likely have a faster trap speed for a flat 14, so I reckon you just don't have the power that you thought you did.

[adis]

Generally, 100mph is a flat 14 in a 1500kg street car.

Did you have traction issues?

I'll be surprised if you really are getting over 200kW at the wheels. I'll bet it's more like 170ish which would make your time about smack on the money.

If you do have 220kW then you must have been spinning hard off the line. Try lower tyre pressures and a big smokey burnout to get some heat into em.

But then if you were spinning off the line you would likely have a faster trap speed for a flat 14, so I reckon you just don't have the power that you thought you did.

Issues i had that day:

1. too hot 35 C

2. Boost dropping off from 14 to 12 by top rev.

3. Took exhaust off, i found the car laggy, i would take off with minimal spin, get traction, and wait from 2700rpm to about 3800 full boost (felt like forever), not sure why it is laggy only first gear.

4. Tires are 240s wide , but not the best brand-doesn't help.

5. First time at the track. (should be number 1 issue).

6. STOCK R33 cooler. Even tho i cooled off the car after each run, being 35 C, cooling off woundt have done much.

[adis]

Issues i had that day:

1. too hot 35 C

2. Boost dropping off from 14 to 12 by top rev.

3. Took exhaust off, i found the car laggy, i would take off with minimal spin, get traction, and wait from 2700rpm to about 3800 full boost (felt like forever), not sure why it is laggy only first gear.

4. Tires are 240s wide , but not the best brand-doesn't help.

5. First time at the track. (should be number 1 issue).

6. STOCK R33 cooler. Even tho i cooled off the car after each run, being 35 C, cooling off woundt have done much.

Next time i go:

1. Wont be 35c, will be cooler.

2. Boost will be at 17, dropping to 15.

3. exhaust stays on

4. Same tires till i wear em out

5. 2nd time at the track, experienced dragger (joke)

6. R34 cooler, helps.

(also i upgraded to 3 inch intake with new pod, that should help too)..all up i made 225kw at wheels.

-only issue, first gear is laggy compared to other gears.

[Messiah]

tbh your numbers there are pretty much spot on.

disconnecting the exhauist would have done bugger all. being a FI car back pressure isnt a biggy so it wouldnt lead to any kind of lag.

my first run on the strip with...

33gts25t

Stock turbo

stuck cooler

3inch turbo back exhaust

14psi

245's

pod

stock ecu

was 14.5

so your numbers are fine.

As for the ecu, its a hard coded tune with no consideration taken into account for the current mods.

So it will make good power under the right conditions, but it has no response programmed in for bad days eg excess heat, bad fuel etc etc

the factory ecu, whilst not ideal for aus fuel, will retard timing in bad conditions... hence safer.

[zebra]

Ohh im back to MINES topic again (sick of it).

Please, Explain to me how factory ECU will perform better than MINES ecu on 12 psi.

Mods:

• Split fire coil pack
  
• Turbotech controller set to 12psi
  
• Apexi cooler
  
• K&N Filter
  
• Full exaust
  
• Greddy blow off
  
• Mines ECU
  
• Stock turbo, fuel and everything else.
  

-This map here, there is nothign wrong with it is there? Not too rich not too lean? You cannot tell me that you will get a graph like this from factory ecu so please dont tell me "there is bugger all difference", thats absolute rubbish.

Even when i just bought it, i felt the difference, so again, dont tell me there is no difference.

I wouldnt say that is safe...its a bit lean, considering the heat soak that affects the stock intercooler.

and there is no such thing as SAFE AFR's a motor will ping at 9:1 if there is too much timing and or heat.

[jordanlisa69]

HAHA oh boy i wish nissan never made the standard ecu the way it is..

Im about to get a mines and try it out. Cheers adis!

on the mods i have now, big poddie, free flow exhaust, boost t, i ran 15.3 quarter mile at best on factory boost! the cars slow has hell and cant even get near 10psi as the ecu is totally gay! Just burns up a ton of fuel for nothing.

so im getting the mines coz its about 1k cheaper then a remap and tune, i can run 12psi, and it will lean it out a bit more then the standard ecu even putting out more power. i doubt you can lean out 12psi on the standard ecu let alone the mines one. so mines should be safe as.

plus i live in nz so we get max 15' C hahaha. love that cold weather.

I also got told that id put out 310hp with a remap chip and tune, front mount, and fuel pump. so for 2k i can have that much power. or for 400 bucks max i can have about 260 hp.

adis dyno proves that hes getting that power. but under that heat its never going to run good.

[Takahashi GTR]

-only issue, first gear is laggy compared to other gears.

I don't think you should have any lag issues with 1st gear at the strip, revs should be way up there in the boost range when you let the clutch go?