Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to hear about your car Rebecca. I know how you feel - I had a 180sx that I had 'mishap' in on a cruise then 2 weeks after having it back from smash repairs, someone went through a red light and finished my baby off...... The main thing is you walked out of the crash with nothing more than whiplash (good stuff for that is - nurofen Gel or Voltaren Gel, its over the counter at the chemist. Rub it onto your neck)

Good luck with the new car!!

depends wat r u looking for a 4dr, coupe or h/b, theres a real nice civic coupe for sale in the autotrader i think its 14k, i think, its a bit rice, but just lowered, mags, exhaust, tint, n nice system, but yer, it looks nice, best look in the trader or quokka to find one...

another person owns a civic...woohoo..we r takin over the world...lol (2 ppl now, 6billion to go.....)

I was learning how to drive my car safely on the way home last night. I was learning how to take corners without losing it. My boyfreind kept telling me to take each corner really slowly to just learn the correct lines to take etc. .

Im trying to remember the last time my skyline lost it into a fence whilst driving slowly around a corner and keeping left.

Oh thats right................ never

Glad your and yours are OK, the road toll doesnt need additions.

Red17

Sorry to hear about the crash there; at least your still here tell us your story.

Civics aren't too bad; one of the 1993 two-door hatches can look sweet lowered on white rims (always with the white rims) and with an understated bodykit. Buddy Club P1's or Enkei Tarmac Evo's (17") would look great.

dont' mean to have a go at u ... but it wasn't the skylines fault u lost it ... u just over did it to early on thats all and u haven't learnt how to control it ... so it doesn't mean u should buy a really slow car which u dont' like ... u just gotta learn to control it ... oh well ... anyways i'm going to sell my car soon too for financial reasons ... i'm also after a civic to run around in ... about 94 model .. how much u think it cost??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
    • Appreciate the insight! Talked to some local folks and they basically told me "it's not that deep." As long as the threading on the inside matches what's at the steering rack, everything else can be constructed-to-fit. There are full aftermarket kits I can use - probably better for my car overall since it's lowered.  Example: GKTech M14 Super Adjustable Inner Tie Rod Set - Nissan Skyline R32 R33 R33, 240SX, 300ZX, 350Z / Infiniti G35 M14I-TROD-2 gktM145-TROD gktM14I-TROD - Concept Z Performance (These can be packaged with their "high misalignment" tie rod ends).
×
×
  • Create New...