Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My port looks like that, but I don't have the cable. Nor the 'BOSE for Skyline' badge, even thought I have the BOSE stereo (SP model).

Mines all Infiniti badging anyway.

BTW am in touch with a company in NZ that makes the band expanders - only $30 NZ delivered for very high quality ones.

Still need to work this out: 'Also I would need to know what type of antenna plug is in the back of the radio unit eg. A single plug or a twin pin plug as these model vehicles varied."

Anyone know?

There are quite a few band expanders available here in NZ, quite a few advertised on TradeMe also

Before you order one check what Mhz you require, they generally come in two different Mhz ranges and you will need to decide which is appropriate for the FM signal range that you use

Very easy to install for most cars, except for Nissan and those damn aerial plugs they have. TradeMe also usually has adaptors for the Nissan aerials listed

Hi David,

Thank you for your enquiry. What area are you in Australia so I can

work out the frequency range you would need and also are the main stations

you listen to in the higher band range eg.over 100MHz? Also I would need to

know what type of antenna plug is in the back of the radio unit eg. A single

plug or a twin pin plug as these model vehicles varied.

Regards,

Peter

Hi Peter,

I'm in Melbourne. I like to listen to as high as 107.5Mhz and as low

as 89.9Mhz (or perhaps a little lower).

Is there an easy way for me to determine the antenna plug?

How much are the units + shipping?

Regards,

David.

Hi David,

The unit you need is a 10MHz which will allow reception below 100MHz

by deducted 10MHz from the station you want and 20MHz deduction for stations

above 100MHz. The cost is NZ$30.00 including airpostage.

There is no easy way. If the radio is a factory unit then it will probably

have a twin plug as they have a diverse antenna. If it has had the Bose

system installed instead of the factory unit then it will more than likely

have a single plug.That's as close as I can tell you.

Payment per Visa/Mastercard or PayPal or Bank Direct credit if you can do

that from Australia.

Regards,

Peter

Peter Brixton

fmBand Expanders

PO.Box 981

Christchurch 8011

New Zealand

Ph.+64 3 3666379

Fax.+64 3 3656197

Mobile.+6421356219

E Mail: [email protected]

Web.www.fmband-expanders.co.nz

  • 3 weeks later...

Hmmm... don't suppose you took a photo? Did you order one from fmBand Expanders in NZ?

I'm going to have a Tom Tom (Mini USB) plug wired in too while I'm at it.

If I CBF'd I was going to investigate having a mini SD set top box powered and connected up to the AUX. Unsure how the reception would be though with little/no aerial.

Hey - is your V36 manual? If so Geoff told me about yours.

I'm in Hobart regularly on business. If you ever come down this way let me know. Would love to bring my one over on the ferry but don't know if I could be bothered with the 10+ hour trip.

Edited by Haxorz

Hey, yeah it's a six sp. Didn't take a pic, spat it when it didn't fit and just left it. Got it from Leading Edge.

What do you do for a crust that brings you to Hobart?

Boat trip isn't that bad, I've done over half a dozen times (not much on flying).

  • 11 months later...

It's comforting to know the AFS OFF flashing indicator was because of the HID's being removed. That was my theory but considering I saw a little movement from my headlights before it would start flashing, I wasn't too sure what to think. I'm guessing the motorised assembly is getting jammed on something so to avoid burning anything out, it then switches it off.

I've left my AFS switch in the off position until I refit my HIDs on my next day off (and hopefully dry weather).

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys, ipod connector, from japan so this should work on our cars

Found the part looking through Electronic Parts Catalog for CKV36

http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline_coupe/ckv36/7299-vq37vhr/misc/

83208-9925 ->

Edited by Mclarenmercman

How can you say its an ipod cable? there are no pic ref for that part number, i reckon they are for the different phones they have in japan, none compatible in Aus probably...

Hey guys, ipod connector, from japan so this should work on our cars

Found the part looking through Electronic Parts Catalog for CKV36

http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline_coupe/ckv36/7299-vq37vhr/misc/

83208-9925 ->

  • 1 year later...

I would like to write a conclusion for this thread.

1. Both headlights move with steering

2. AFS function is fully restored when you revert back to D2S hid

3. Light emission 'pattern' is back when you revert back to D2S hid.

Adr compliance is stupid. Nissan design its headlight to run oem hid. People here switch it out to standard halogen globe, predominantly H1 size in which has different focal length. Then what you get is NO LIGHT THROUGH THE CENTRE OF YOUR VISION, short visible distance and your AFS malfunctions. Dangerous?? But the adr wants it that way...go figure!

Fortunately if the workshop who did the compliance are smart and proper, buy the D2S hid globe and it only takes 30mins to revert back to hid. At least it was on my 08 V36

Adr compliance is stupid.

Of course. They're trying to follow the UK one I think, with the washers etc. That's great for apline regions, don't need it in Aus. Either way, if it works for the Japanese, why can't it work for us?

Oh that's right, 50% of the cars on the road have the headlights pointed too high. Literally nothing can be done about that, even if you put adjusters in as standard (which is the case in Europe).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...