Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D

for those who cant be bothered reading

the engine check light comes on and flashes differently for the following reasons

a sensor out of range or failed - ie water temp sensor, airflow meter, tps - which ever is dead will be highlighted in ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller

injectors reaching 98%

knock exceeding a level of 60

airflow meter reaching 5v

these are defaults on the powerfc and you can change the sequence flash in datalgot, and you can enable/disable the flash on the hand controller via ETC, FUNCTION SELECT

I read that already on your faq. The main reason it could be coming on from the hand controller is the inj-duty reading 100% which i have found out. And as i have said, I am getting the car retuned on thursday and I wont be driving it until then.

hmm thought it would have run a bit lean if it was hitting 100% inj duty and you would have seen a little bit of knock, probably luck you didnt anyway lol

yeah get the tunes and/or injectors sorted and should be alright, The atmo bov thing as said, prob wont run 100% with them but should be good enough to drive around with half decent fuel economy, probably try for a plumback bov in the near future but

best of luck with it

hmm thought it would have run a bit lean if it was hitting 100% inj duty and you would have seen a little bit of knock, probably luck you didnt anyway lol

yeah get the tunes and/or injectors sorted and should be alright, The atmo bov thing as said, prob wont run 100% with them but should be good enough to drive around with half decent fuel economy, probably try for a plumback bov in the near future but

best of luck with it

thanks 89cal. I will look at getting a plumb back in the future. The fuel economy thing is not so important to me atm bcos the car is not a daily but i would like to fix it in future. I havent seen any knock higher than 30 so i guess this is a good thing. Will look at getting some bigger injectors and a fuel pump. Tune on thursday so will see how first.

hmm thought it would have run a bit lean if it was hitting 100% inj duty and you would have seen a little bit of knock

provided everythins working properly (ie fuel reg) 100% with a standard turbo would be rather rich. and lean doesnt always induce knock, i've had my car as lean as 17:1 (fuel reg died) at WOT with the same timing as 12:1 with no change in knock.

as said check light will be from inj duty, turn it off in function select if it annoys you

provided everythins working properly (ie fuel reg) 100% with a standard turbo would be rather rich. and lean doesnt always induce knock, i've had my car as lean as 17:1 (fuel reg died) at WOT with the same timing as 12:1 with no change in knock.

as said check light will be from inj duty, turn it off in function select if it annoys you

reading pauls faq, he stated that inj duty at 100% can be fatal though?

of course it can be fatal, the injectors are at 100%

they cannot physically pump in any more fuel

if you hit max inj duty of 100% at 5000rpm and the engine continues to use more air, it will lean out, which places the engine at risk

no engine or tune should max injectors

if you blip 100% at 6980RPM for a slit second its probably ok

but if you hit 100% much earlier and the engine is more on load progressively, its a timebomb

of course it can be fatal, the injectors are at 100%

they cannot physically pump in any more fuel

if you hit max inj duty of 100% at 5000rpm and the engine continues to use more air, it will lean out, which places the engine at risk

no engine or tune should max injectors

if you blip 100% at 6980RPM for a slit second its probably ok

but if you hit 100% much earlier and the engine is more on load progressively, its a timebomb

only hitting 100% at redline for a few seconds. its running rich so leaning it out abit, the cycle duty should go down.

ahh yeahh.... sorry ive stuffed up there lol...

What you were saying is 100% inj duty on stock turbo will run rich because the tune would not require that much fuel

Yeah silly me thought the car was hitting 100% duty and still wanting more, but 100% would be lots of fuel with stock turbo

Sorry bout that I wasnt thinking :D

ZXY: Your tuner will sort it out, as long as you know what you want out of the tune he will sort it out for you

of course it can be fatal, the injectors are at 100%

they cannot physically pump in any more fuel

if you hit max inj duty of 100% at 5000rpm and the engine continues to use more air, it will lean out, which places the engine at risk

ONLY if the figures in the map are the correct amounts required for a desirable air fuel ratio. if its running at 10:1 at 100% its not leaning out is it?

entirely agree it can be dangerous, but in this case i highly doubt it really needs anymore fuel

my tuner fixed the rich fuel mixture. But he had to use the hand controller as the powerfc firmware on my ecu was too new for him. He has to update his firmware to tune it. But still better afr now and injectors are around 85% at full throttle

feel alot nicer to drive?

yea feels nicer to drive and its only on 10psi but making good power. Less black soot on my boot as noticed. will go back for a retune when he sorts out his firmware as he only did the tune via controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...