Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I've always been interested in jap imports, and am probably going to buy a R34 gt-t in the near future

But I'm new to the scene, and have a few questions

1) maybe a stupid question, but how reliable are the R34s from 1998-2002? I'm just looking at a daily driver with a decent pace

2) are parts for these cars expensive compared to non-imports?

3) when I'm about to buy one from a personal seller, who would be a reliable mechanic/service in sydney who could inspect the car mechanically?

4) how much petrol does a full tank need, and roughly how much km's do you get on a full tank, for just everyday inner city driving?

Thanks in advance!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321000-potential-r34-gt-t-buyer/
Share on other sites

You've made the right choice for choosing a Skyline !!! The car can be reliable as long as you look after and service

regulary. Parts are not so bad IMO as long as you don't buy them from Nissan, wreckers will be a better choice

when comes to buying parts. Fuel usage is depends on how you drive the car. I usually get around 500km from

a full tank. Try not to buy an automatic :)

Good luck with the purchase !

1) maybe a stupid question, but how reliable are the R34s from 1998-2002? I'm just looking at a daily driver with a decent pace

They r great cars and very reliable i've had mine for 5 yrs now and i havent had any probs apart from having to change the coils the main issue with them is that the standard coils which r said to go out at around 60- 70,000 KM but my ones lasted way beyond that.

2) are parts for these cars expensive compared to non-imports?

this really depends on which parts there a lots of after-market parts avaliable some r expensive and some r not, they r not cheeper then holden/ford parts but r less then most euro/japanese non imports

3) when I'm about to buy one from a personal seller, who would be a reliable mechanic/service in sydney who could inspect the car mechanically?

this i cannot answer as am from melb

4) how much petrol does a full tank need, and roughly how much km's do you get on a full tank, for just everyday inner city driving

im my R34 skyline Manuel it says that its a 65 ltr tank but when its one the empty line and i go to fill it up i can only manage 52 ltrs which leads me to believe that the reserve tank is about 10-15 ltrs

as for how many Kms per ltr that varies if u have any mods on the car, if the car is completely standard and in good condition than u should be getting anywhere from 400-500 per 100 kms thats provided u drive it sensibly and keeping it off boost. if the car has performance mods on it or if it runs a bit rich then anywhere from 300-400 kms.

hope this helps mate

and to the the WANKER who said let the flaming begun and do a search the guy is new to this SO IF U DONT HAVE ANYTHING HELPFUL TO SAY OR U CANT ANSWER THE QUESTION DONT SAY ANYTHING AT ALL.

and to the the WANKER who said let the flaming begun and do a search the guy is new to this SO IF U DONT HAVE ANYTHING HELPFUL TO SAY OR U CANT ANSWER THE QUESTION DONT SAY ANYTHING AT ALL.

Amen to that, it's okay to be nice to people even if they are on internet !

By the way I used to get around 440km from a full tank when I used to cruise at 60 km/h in 4th gear.

After I tried 5th gears at 60 km/h I usually get 500+km from a full tank until the fuel light warning came on.

also don't forget that you have to run them on premium unleaded, so if you aren't willing to pay for more expensive fuel then drop the idea of a skyline now.

as for parts, obviously they will be harder to get and more expensive than something like a commodore or falcon, but that is only partly because an import. you will find that most japanese cars (toyota, nissan, mazda, etc), even ones sold new here in australia, will generally be more expensive on parts than some of the other brands. but that also comes down to what parts you are after as well. some stuff where there are generic parts available won't be much more than normal.

as people have said, the fuel tank is 65L. fuel light will generally come on with about 10L to go. as for economy, it comes down to how you drive, and how much traffic you have to drive in. if you do lots of stop/start driving and give it a bit when you accelerate you may only get 250 to 300kms out of 50L. if you get a good run and pretty much never have to slow down and drive sensibly then you might get around 400kms out of 50L. you can expect the economy to be that of any 6 cylinder car really. in fact in my 33 i got the worst economy of any of the cars i have owned (and that included a commodore, falcon and 3.5L v6 magna). i was a bit of a lead foot and i was getting about 17L/100kms round town. in the missus SSS pulsar i get about 10L/100km round town.

Hey guys

I've always been interested in jap imports, and am probably going to buy a R34 gt-t in the near future

But I'm new to the scene, and have a few questions

1) maybe a stupid question, but how reliable are the R34s from 1998-2002? I'm just looking at a daily driver with a decent pace

2) are parts for these cars expensive compared to non-imports?

3) when I'm about to buy one from a personal seller, who would be a reliable mechanic/service in sydney who could inspect the car mechanically?

4) how much petrol does a full tank need, and roughly how much km's do you get on a full tank, for just everyday inner city driving?

Thanks in advance!!

1) there as reliable as any other car if u treat it right it should be ok

2) yes they r expensive they r not silvias lol

3) i cant answer coz i live in melbourne

4)65ks to a tank. not very much in the city however i have never really friven a stock one but mine was mildly moddified and was about 400ks to a tank of mixed driving

btw do a search all of these q's have been answered many many times bro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...