Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34's has been using way too much petrol lately, I get about 200km's for $50, that's close to 17L per 100km. I cleaned the K&N air filter, tried both Shell V-Power and Mobil 98 Octane, but it didn't help.

Would anyone have any idea what the problem could be? I'm thinking it might be the spark plugs, I got the premium one's put in about 30.000k's ago and haven't changed them in a while. I change the oil, fuel filter & oil filter regularly.

Thanks for the help.

check O2 sensor between the extractor and firewall. or get nissan consult and read the R34 service manual. the manuals basically covers the whole problems. PM me if u need the R34 manual copy.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

I imagine he doesn't hit boost very often...

Thanks for the replies guys.

mad082, I don't hit the boost often since the car is non-turbo :D but thank you for the reply, I usually shift the gears around 2.5k's RPM's, I don't really drive hard.

I found a thread on how to test the O2 sensor with the paperclip method, so I will do this on the weekend. Only mods I have on the car is an exhaust system and splitfire coilpacks, I'll test the o2 sensor on the weekend, if that's fine, then I will try changing the coilpacks.

  • 1 month later...

Well I changed the o2 sensor, no improvement.

Checked spark plugs and the fuel regulator, all good.

Checked the ECU for error codes but it comes up as code 55 = no error.

I get about 320k's per full tank before the fuel light comes on.

Anybody got any other ideas with what's causing this? Bad injectors? Vacuum leak?

Fatter tires = more drag

Underinflated tires

Check for dragging brakes. Also check the park brake/handbrake.

Get your wheels re-aligned.

If your car is a manual - check for a slipping clutch

If your car is an auto get the automatic serviced.

Check the vacum line to the variable length intake manifold's acuator. This can cause the car to act sluggish at low RPMs and also lower the engine torque - therefore you will be pressing the accelerator more.

Ensure you are using light weight engine oil nothing heavier than 40 weight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...