Jump to content
SAU Community

Need To Know Part # For R34 Boost Sensor, Not The Turbo Pressure Sensor

putraged

By putraged,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

putraged Rising Star

putraged

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi guys, as title says. i need to get the boost sensor sender unit. lots of people mistakenly refers it to the turbo pressure sensor. i've been looking for it since mine is R34 N/A going for turbo conversion, so i don't have the stock boost sensor.

hopefully the images will give u the idea. if so, can u run FAST and show my the part #? or it'll be better of someone willing to wreck it from R34 GT-T/R.

cheers.

boostsensor0.jpg

boostsensor2.jpg

boostsensor1.jpg

Edited by putraged
Flargh! Enthusiast

Flargh!

Posted
Posted
anyone willing to check at least the part #? u can see it straight away when u pop ur bonnet.

thanks a lot guys.

Stamped on the top are these numbers. Whether they are the part numbers or not i have no idea.

SAE PA66

PA66-G30

putraged Rising Star

putraged

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks ken, i've searched it on yahoo auctions and came up nothing as well. prolly needs more specific?

dan: currently no one wrecks it in sydney. where did u get yours from?

Tristan21 Contributor

Tristan21

Posted
Posted

Anyone know if the R34 boost sensor is the same as R32?

I was replacing the vac line to the boost sensor and the valve broke off, now the gauge does'nt work anymore. I am sure this wont cause any problems but I would prefer to fix it anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • Komdotkom
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
×
×
  • Create New...