Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had issues where the fuel pump looses its earth contact. Somewhere I read where a member had made up an earth kit for his 35. I have just done it for my C34.

Ok tah.

I'll suggest that to see if it may be a possibility in this case...

Hopefully its nothing to serious, or tedious

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nothing new as of yet..

Would it be worth trying to check the ECU Fault Codes for anything?

It couldn't hurt or make anything worse so I'd give it a shot. If something has died or gone wrong it may assist you in pin pointing where to look.

Well, I'm not going to get a chance to do it tonight...

We had our Mechanic friend come around and have a look, and they checked over everything, and fuel seems to be getting to the engine, and the pump is working fine, but it is something else.

Either way, we'll try and see what codes (if any) we can extract from the car...

I read another thread where the AFM had died?

Anyone think this could be the case in mine?

It seems like it's something stupid that died, because Dad got it started after putting fuel in, it was Mum who tried starting it later, then it wouldn't start...

It's up on dad's hoist at the moment, so we can check it all out...

May sound like a stupid question, but I'm not in front of my car, and I don't know them all that well, but where do I locate the AFM?

(yes I am car noob)

Going to go check it out in about an hour...

See if I can get any codes out or anything else...

Edited by 3PointJ

Hi Guys,

Well we checked the AFM, didn't do shit.

Got the code out of the ECU, I cant remember as my memory is shocking, but it was either one of the following

P0120 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

P0121 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Played round with a few other things relating to the code, but still nothing

Anyway, ended up getting it tilt-trayed to the Auto-Electrician, as its sorta becoming beyond our knowledge of what it might be...

f**k.

Try re-seating the plug on the throttle body? Give it a light tap also, in case the contacts on the tps are dirty. Then try resetting the ecu? Failing that I would have to suggest Nissan. :blink:

Scott....how do you have time to be on SAU!!! :)

where are my parts b**ch!!!!

Checked for blown fuses?

Yeah checked that. All appeared to be fine

Try re-seating the plug on the throttle body? Give it a light tap also, in case the contacts on the tps are dirty. Then try resetting the ecu? Failing that I would have to suggest Nissan. :blink:

Yeah gave that a bit of a go.

Bit lost and confused really lol...

See how the Auto-Electrician goes. Hopefully he find something silly that I've missed.

I would clear the codes and try again. see if it spits out the same code again.

It's in the hands of the Auto-Electrician now, so I cant do anything atm.

i have a spare throttle body if you need it!

I'll keep that in mind mate. Appreciate it.

No word from the Auto-Electrician at the moment...

I'm just hoping the issue is not something super f**ked up.

Just to let you guys know, the car has been fixed. It's running, driving all ok...

I haven't been told what the issue was yet, he was just doing some final checkovers, idling was down, so just waiting till its all working to find out.

I'll let you guys know what it is, for everyone else's future reference (in case its an issue no one has experience)

Just to let you guys know, the car has been fixed. It's running, driving all ok...

I haven't been told what the issue was yet, he was just doing some final checkovers, idling was down, so just waiting till its all working to find out.

I'll let you guys know what it is, for everyone else's future reference (in case its an issue no one has experience)

that would be great.....sux being without the car aye!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...