Jump to content
SAU Community

Stack Dash

Kaido_RR
 Share

Recommended Posts

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
I was keen on the stack dash purely because of the Tacho being analogue.

BUT after researching for weeks about the competitors ended up getting the AIM dash, IMO better and cheaper and still CAN compatible for the M800 to talk to.

This was my overriding requirment. Not to duplicate sensors all over the car.

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted
While we are on the subject of different dash's,

Has any one used the microtech dash?

Looks Pretty basic but may be an option for me

Had one, didn't really rate it at all.. its basically just the handcontroller in a different box/layout with some lights. Its only compatible with Microtech too BTW.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

But the ones you guys are looking at dont have much data logging and external inputs , do they? its good that it covers the basic engine details, but it doesnt have 4 wheel speed sensors so yoou know when you are gettign wheel spin or locking brakes. I am not sure if they come with the software that you can overlay your laps and compare times. Not sure you can run pyros to get brake temperatures or pots to get roll and pitch. Cant log A/F or fuel rail pressure

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

I bough an AiM MyChron in 2004. I like it, but if i had of waited until a botu 2006-2007 i would have been able to get a way better dash for less money

giant Mentor

giant

Posted
Posted

I like the stack, as i am only really interested in the tacho when your at full flight and they have great tacho's the react fast.

also very easy to see warning for over temp, low oil , which scrolls up when a problem occurs.

mark has an aim in the r34, which is good too and data logs all the info also has a laptimer and it's back lit with bright led's for shift lights.

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

The quote to turn my dash into a data logger, with video overlay features and the camera kit with DVR is close enough to 5k US... ouch!

Tektrader69 Rising Star

Tektrader69

Posted
Posted (edited)
I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

Had limited experience with it. Would be nice if it was a touch bigger. I only bought the base model with no logging. But the M800 has inbuilt logging in any case. The alarm functions are very good. The top alarm LEDS are very bright. I hardly have top look at the display when driving. Its easy to configure to just startle you if something is wrong. So you can then look at the display.

Its just like a bigger version of Roy's MyChron

IMO depending on your ECU and if it has CAN buss. The system is A LOT easier to implement. I think the latest POV can connect via CAN as well and allows the data inset to be recorded within the video.

Edited by Tektrader69
Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I like the Defi cluster, but pretty sure it wasn't available outside of Japan. think i read somewhere about $2.5k.

post-194-1275003245_thumb.jpg

I already look into the defi cluster, not sold outside of japan, so i was like i be sneaky and get my contact in japan to buy it for me then ship it here but you can't do that because they have to install it aswell :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Curlyfred
      Hiya!

      By Curlyfred · Posted

      Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • GTSBoy
      r34's love to squeal

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...