Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was keen on the stack dash purely because of the Tacho being analogue.

BUT after researching for weeks about the competitors ended up getting the AIM dash, IMO better and cheaper and still CAN compatible for the M800 to talk to.

This was my overriding requirment. Not to duplicate sensors all over the car.

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

While we are on the subject of different dash's,

Has any one used the microtech dash?

Looks Pretty basic but may be an option for me

Had one, didn't really rate it at all.. its basically just the handcontroller in a different box/layout with some lights. Its only compatible with Microtech too BTW.

But the ones you guys are looking at dont have much data logging and external inputs , do they? its good that it covers the basic engine details, but it doesnt have 4 wheel speed sensors so yoou know when you are gettign wheel spin or locking brakes. I am not sure if they come with the software that you can overlay your laps and compare times. Not sure you can run pyros to get brake temperatures or pots to get roll and pitch. Cant log A/F or fuel rail pressure

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

I bough an AiM MyChron in 2004. I like it, but if i had of waited until a botu 2006-2007 i would have been able to get a way better dash for less money

I like the stack, as i am only really interested in the tacho when your at full flight and they have great tacho's the react fast.

also very easy to see warning for over temp, low oil , which scrolls up when a problem occurs.

mark has an aim in the r34, which is good too and data logs all the info also has a laptimer and it's back lit with bright led's for shift lights.

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

The quote to turn my dash into a data logger, with video overlay features and the camera kit with DVR is close enough to 5k US... ouch!

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

Had limited experience with it. Would be nice if it was a touch bigger. I only bought the base model with no logging. But the M800 has inbuilt logging in any case. The alarm functions are very good. The top alarm LEDS are very bright. I hardly have top look at the display when driving. Its easy to configure to just startle you if something is wrong. So you can then look at the display.

Its just like a bigger version of Roy's MyChron

IMO depending on your ECU and if it has CAN buss. The system is A LOT easier to implement. I think the latest POV can connect via CAN as well and allows the data inset to be recorded within the video.

Edited by Tektrader69
I like the Defi cluster, but pretty sure it wasn't available outside of Japan. think i read somewhere about $2.5k.

post-194-1275003245_thumb.jpg

I already look into the defi cluster, not sold outside of japan, so i was like i be sneaky and get my contact in japan to buy it for me then ship it here but you can't do that because they have to install it aswell :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...