Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was keen on the stack dash purely because of the Tacho being analogue.

BUT after researching for weeks about the competitors ended up getting the AIM dash, IMO better and cheaper and still CAN compatible for the M800 to talk to.

This was my overriding requirment. Not to duplicate sensors all over the car.

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

While we are on the subject of different dash's,

Has any one used the microtech dash?

Looks Pretty basic but may be an option for me

Had one, didn't really rate it at all.. its basically just the handcontroller in a different box/layout with some lights. Its only compatible with Microtech too BTW.

But the ones you guys are looking at dont have much data logging and external inputs , do they? its good that it covers the basic engine details, but it doesnt have 4 wheel speed sensors so yoou know when you are gettign wheel spin or locking brakes. I am not sure if they come with the software that you can overlay your laps and compare times. Not sure you can run pyros to get brake temperatures or pots to get roll and pitch. Cant log A/F or fuel rail pressure

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

I bough an AiM MyChron in 2004. I like it, but if i had of waited until a botu 2006-2007 i would have been able to get a way better dash for less money

I like the stack, as i am only really interested in the tacho when your at full flight and they have great tacho's the react fast.

also very easy to see warning for over temp, low oil , which scrolls up when a problem occurs.

mark has an aim in the r34, which is good too and data logs all the info also has a laptimer and it's back lit with bright led's for shift lights.

So not saying all that crap is required, but if you are spendign money on a unit, it pays to get as much data logging and analogue inputs as possible. If i am wrong then apologies, but when i looked a long time ago the Stack units were very expensive if you wanted data logging and extra functonality.

The quote to turn my dash into a data logger, with video overlay features and the camera kit with DVR is close enough to 5k US... ouch!

I really like the AIM units, and would have probably bought one if it would talk to my stock ECU. Unfortunately it wouldn't, so Stack was the better option in the end. How do you find the AIM?

Had limited experience with it. Would be nice if it was a touch bigger. I only bought the base model with no logging. But the M800 has inbuilt logging in any case. The alarm functions are very good. The top alarm LEDS are very bright. I hardly have top look at the display when driving. Its easy to configure to just startle you if something is wrong. So you can then look at the display.

Its just like a bigger version of Roy's MyChron

IMO depending on your ECU and if it has CAN buss. The system is A LOT easier to implement. I think the latest POV can connect via CAN as well and allows the data inset to be recorded within the video.

Edited by Tektrader69
I like the Defi cluster, but pretty sure it wasn't available outside of Japan. think i read somewhere about $2.5k.

post-194-1275003245_thumb.jpg

I already look into the defi cluster, not sold outside of japan, so i was like i be sneaky and get my contact in japan to buy it for me then ship it here but you can't do that because they have to install it aswell :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...