Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking into getting front and rear brake upgrade cause mine arnt the best and i was wondering wats out there with out spending like 2gz? is there a difference between r23gtst and r32 gtr brakes? or can r33 gtst brakes fit because i think brembos will be to much money. the cars only for street so i dont need nothing to crazy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323255-brake-upgrade-for-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

id just go for some R32 GTR or R33 GTSt calipers and rotors... its only a 16mm bigger rotor or so but theres not much else you can really do without spending big bucks on 33 or 34 GTR brakes.

prefferably go for the 33 gtst brakes as they came out with brembo's. better than the sumitomo things on the 32 GTR.

id just go for some R32 GTR or R33 GTSt calipers and rotors... its only a 16mm bigger rotor or so but theres not much else you can really do without spending big bucks on 33 or 34 GTR brakes.

prefferably go for the 33 gtst brakes as they came out with brembo's. better than the sumitomo things on the 32 GTR.

33 gtst are the same sumitomo that are on 32 r

33r is brembo

^^^^^

Agreed. At least try that first before spending big.

Pulling mine down to every component, cleaning all the gunk out, replacing seals etc, then putting them back together with a quick lick of paint and some new rotors/pads did wonders for mine. And the paint added another 10kw, undoubtedly...

33 gtst are the same sumitomo that are on 32 r

33r is brembo

33 GTS-T is not same caliper as 32 GTR .. Both are made by sumitomo but both are a different caliper

Upgrade to 33 GTS-T calipers with slotted rotors and decent pads

if found the 32gtr brakes perform alot better, have installed a few r33 gtst brakes on some friends cars, none brake as well as my car and my car is heavier than most, imo pay a little bit more and get the 32 gtr brakes, im also using lucas pads, they are semi-harsh on discs but stop very well and are cheap as a full tank of fuel

if found the 32gtr brakes perform alot better, have installed a few r33 gtst brakes on some friends cars, none brake as well as my car and my car is heavier than most, imo pay a little bit more and get the 32 gtr brakes, im also using lucas pads, they are semi-harsh on discs but stop very well and are cheap as a full tank of fuel

Would expect the 34 to pull up better with 310mm rotors compared to the 32 gtr n 33 gts-t 296mm . So the 32 gtr brakes work better then the 33 gts-t ?

sorry i forgot to mention my car is an N/A chassis from factory, has been converted to a det motor and driveline.

i also upgraded the brakes to r32 gtr brakes, stock rotors (296mm) and lucas pads and yes, ive found them to perform better than 33gtst calipers, probably because of the larger pistons?

also id just like to say, dont bother rebuilding the calipers if they arent leaking or siezed, it will not yeild any performance gains.

I've had 32gtst, 32R and 33gtst calipers sitting next to each other and didn't notice a difference in piston size O_o

The only thing I noticed was that the 32R calipers were lighter and the 33gtst looked stronger (more meat in certain places) than the 32gtst and 32R.

sorry i forgot to mention my car is an N/A chassis from factory, has been converted to a det motor and driveline.

i also upgraded the brakes to r32 gtr brakes, stock rotors (296mm) and lucas pads and yes, ive found them to perform better than 33gtst calipers, probably because of the larger pistons?

also id just like to say, dont bother rebuilding the calipers if they arent leaking or siezed, it will not yeild any performance gains.

Made me strip down 2 calipers to check .. both same size here :blink:

Also my Project MUs are ok

Edited by Dsturbd
  • Like 1

I'm running 324mm slotted rotors, 33gtst calipers, DS2500 pads, braided lines and a master cyl. stopper.. hauls up alright :thumbsup:

Trying to figure out how to fit similar on the wagoon.. adapter brackets don't want to fit on the 4wd hubs :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...