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Problem With R32 Gtst

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Western Australia

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dose_it Enthusiast

dose_it

Posted
Posted

It's the hose that goes to the aac valve there's a tee piece in it. The other line goes to the sensor. Check that hose and that sensor and the wiring that goes to the hose. Hope this makes sense at is 410 am and I'm a little drunk :)

TrevR32 Explorer

TrevR32

Posted
Posted

Are you talking about the sensor that is mounted on the r/h/s side of the firewall? that is a map sensor that is a map sensor that runs the boost gauge in the instrument cluster and has no connection to the ecu, it sounds like you have an air leak one way you can test for an air leak is to pressurize the intake which is what i did using a 1.25lt coke bottle and a tyre valve, the inlet valves are all open at different times so you need to create a seal i made a gasket and split the inlet manifold and sealed it there.

another way to find a leak is to run the car on the dyno and look for a dip in the power curve a bit like valve float on a gen 3 engine if it doesnt dip then you know you dont have a leak, Check you PVC valve too.

I put a few genuine hks ssqv on my car and a couple of months later had similar problems so i pressure tested the inlet and found the seal on on the blow off vavle had come off 5 mins to fix car running good again

hope this can help Cheers Trev

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
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It's the hose that goes to the aac valve there's a tee piece in it. The other line goes to the sensor. Check that hose and that sensor and the wiring that goes to the hose. Hope this makes sense at is 410 am and I'm a little drunk :blink:

Yeh ok, i'll get him to check it out. But i think it was all connected up, because that t-piece is what his work colleagues blocked up to stop it idling high.

dose_it Enthusiast

dose_it

Posted
Posted

Yea that one is connected and when you unplug it and block it, it lowers the idle and then hunts. That's the line that needs replacing and the sensor it goes too. I'll explain it tomorrow in depth. I really shouldn't be on here at 4am when I'm tired. I've tried explaining it twice now it's not hard

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
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Lol ohhhh, ok haha, now i get ya. I'll get him to check it out.

He said he has found a few f**ked vacuum hoses as well, so we are waiting on new silicon vacuum line to come in to replace it all, hopefully get rid of any vacuum leaks.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
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Ok just had another crack at this but no luck. It is idling lower now, below 1000rpm. And it doesn't hunt at idle anymore depending on which hoses we block off. But no matter what we do, if you give it any throttle, the engine sort of surges. Like the revs will go up and then suddenly drop down to idle level then suddenly go up, and it just does that repeatedly. It's very much like hunting but while under load.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
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Ok, just went for a quick 5 minute drive to take some videos so i could show you guys what it is doing. I apologize for the filming, i was using my phone to film and trying to work indicators and turn the steering wheel as well, so some of it is a bit all over the place... Also please keep in mind that this is what the car is doing, i am not tapping the accelerator or anything to make it do anything, i'm driving normally. If you turn the volume up a bit then you can hear what the engine is doing (important).

This is the first video. In this video i had just started the car, so this video shows what the car does when it is cold:

Now this is the second video. This was about after 1 minute of driving, notice the revs at the very start of the video... Then i accelerate a bit and you can clearly see that the car drives fine all the way to redline:

This third video is after about 3 minutes of driving. When it goes to about 3.5k rpm is when i changed into 3rd gear to show you that the car drives fine when decelerating. Then i turn a corner and accelerate to 4k rpm, car still drives fine then. After about 0.37 seconds into the video is when you need to turn the volume up a bit to hear the engine. Notice how it lurches? That is the car, not me:

This is the 4th video, after about 5 minutes of driving, i had got back to my house and was sitting in the driveway. This is how it idles after just a quick 5 minute drive:

So just to summarize, car idles fine when first started (was a little bit rough initially, but after about 5 seconds it came right and sat at 1.5k rpm which is when i started filming). But then while driving the car lurches if you have the throttle slightly open to cruise. Decelerating is fine, doesn't lurch at all. Acceleration is fine, doesn't lurch at all. But if you sit on the throttle a little bit just to maintain your speed, then the car lurches like in the 3rd video.

Please help? lol

reNEGaDe88 Proficient

reNEGaDe88

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dude, wtf is up with your oil pressure. Mine sits at 2 minimum. Starts at 6 and goes to 4 when warm, and sits at 3 nicely. Why is yours at zero so often.

What ecu do you have. It is hunting for idle. Mine does that cos of aftermarket ecu.

Edited by reNEGaDe88
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Stock ecu man, everything stock except for pod filter, exhaust and alloy radiator.

And I'm pretty sure the gauge is just broken, been like that since he got it. Sits at 0 most of the time, moves occasionally. The last video is a bit weird, it goes up and down with the revs...

Edited by Hanaldo
Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Need to plug in a consult

another way you could try, mark the position of the tps, then very gradually move it and see if the idle comes good - not exact, but will give you an idea if that is effecting it

if it makes no difference, return it to the marked position

nuts are 7mm

TonyStarks Collaborator

TonyStarks

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yo at one point my car would not idle in neutral (without constantly tapping the gas), would not even boost. Took it to Ben at KYP he just grunted and replaced some things fixed it in about 10 minutes and charged me $35.00.

Prior to that I tried all other solutions, AFM cleaning/replacing with brake fluid, tightening my bov, checking cooler piping. Best bet is to take it to a reputable shop, tell em your problem and they will fix it.

Unless your car just needs a tune ....

Edited by TonyStarks
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yo at one point my car would not idle in neutral (without constantly tapping the gas), would not even boost. Took it to Ben at KYP he just grunted and replaced some things fixed it in about 10 minutes and charged me $35.00.

Prior to that I tried all other solutions, AFM cleaning/replacing with brake fluid, tightening my bov, checking cooler piping. Best bet is to take it to a reputable shop, tell em your problem and they will fix it.

Unless your car just needs a tune ....

Lol yes i've experienced the grunt from Ben hahaha :P

I don't see why car would need a tune, everything is stock. Nothing has been changed that would be cause for a tune, unless a sensor is busted and now the ECU doesn't know what to do. Taking it to a workshop is really a last resort for us, would rather fix it ourselves; not least because you can hardly drive it for 2 minutes before it becomes an absolute pig to drive... We are in the hills, so most high performance workshops are a good 40 minute drive :(

TonyStarks Collaborator

TonyStarks

Posted
Posted
Lol yes i've experienced the grunt from Ben hahaha :P

I don't see why car would need a tune, everything is stock. Nothing has been changed that would be cause for a tune, unless a sensor is busted and now the ECU doesn't know what to do. Taking it to a workshop is really a last resort for us, would rather fix it ourselves; not least because you can hardly drive it for 2 minutes before it becomes an absolute pig to drive... We are in the hills, so most high performance workshops are a good 40 minute drive :(

Hahaha he reminds me of the guys dad from the initial D movie. But without the excessive drinking/smoking/tofu/beating of people.

few words. RAC roadside assistance. Classic cover. 100k of towing from point of breakdown. Not only will it help you now, but for future reference. By the way its $130 a year. Ive blown cooler piping/radiator hoses and all i have to do is call a number and wait by my car. Once in the middle of mill point road during peak hour. metal cover on the pod filter when through my afm......

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