Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Has anyone weighed there R34 GTT Coupe,The specs say 1410 kilo's.How close is this to reality.

Hi Steve,

good question, I'd be keen on getting a definitive answer as well (for an R34 GTT sedan).

Different sources have slightly different figures:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline#R34

- 1410 kg (4-door sedan / 2-door coupe)

http://www.japanesesportcars.com/skyline/s...4_ggt_turbo.php

- 1490 kg (sedan) / 1340 kg (coupe)

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm

- 1410 kg (4 door sedan or 2 door coupe)

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...tcount839233944

- 2.5 25GT Turbo coupe 1430kg (4AT), 1410kg (5MT)

- 2.5 25GT Turbo sedan 1450kg (4AT), 1430kg (5MT)

The Performance Forums numbers seem pretty good, i.e.

- base weight 1410kg for R34 GTT coupe manual

- add 20kg for automatic transmission

- add 20kg for sedan

Can anyone confirm these please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5271922
Share on other sites

Always remember when reading weights off of the internet is that you don't know whether it includes all fluids, spare wheel and accessories and what factory options it may have (sunroof, dual airbags, ABS, etc.) as all the running fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant etc) in the vehicle can add 20-30kg. Than a full tank of fuel can add 50-70kg, suddenly you have a car that weighs 100kg more than what is written on the internet just in fluids.

I weighed my car (R33 GTST SII) on a weigh bridge with me in the car and half a tank of fuel and it was 1500kg. So take away my weight and the half a tank of fuel and your looking at around 1400kg with all running fluids (minus fuel) for my R33. My car has ABS, dual airbags and an A-LSD so has a lot of extra weight compared to a R33 without these things. Has a few things lighter than factory items and a few things removed, but it would probably be offseted from all the modifications added to it.

Vehicle weights are hard to get accurate unless weighing the particular car as some mods save weight (carbon panels, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust) and a lot of others add weight (coilovers, speakers, intercoolers, bodykits etc). So always use what you read as a guide and think about all the variables.

I would love a database on this website with a lot of items weighed accurately so people can add/subtract things to get a better idea of weights.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5275839
Share on other sites

Always remember when reading weights off of the internet is that you don't know whether it includes all fluids, spare wheel and accessories and what factory options it may have (sunroof, dual airbags, ABS, etc.) as all the running fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant etc) in the vehicle can add 20-30kg. Than a full tank of fuel can add 50-70kg, suddenly you have a car that weighs 100kg more than what is written on the internet just in fluids.

I weighed my car (R33 GTST SII) on a weigh bridge with me in the car and half a tank of fuel and it was 1500kg. So take away my weight and the half a tank of fuel and your looking at around 1400kg with all running fluids (minus fuel) for my R33. My car has ABS, dual airbags and an A-LSD so has a lot of extra weight compared to a R33 without these things. Has a few things lighter than factory items and a few things removed, but it would probably be offseted from all the modifications added to it.

Vehicle weights are hard to get accurate unless weighing the particular car as some mods save weight (carbon panels, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust) and a lot of others add weight (coilovers, speakers, intercoolers, bodykits etc). So always use what you read as a guide and think about all the variables.

I would love a database on this website with a lot of items weighed accurately so people can add/subtract things to get a better idea of weights.

but you will still get the problem of different scales having slightly different calibrations and margins of error.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5278214
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

This is the weight as taken from the original Japanese owners manual converted to English. :(

2WD (Rear wheel Drive)

Vehicle Weight: RB25DET 1410kg RB25DE 1340kg RB20DE 1330kg

4WD

RB25DET 1450kg

GT-R 1540kg Curb Weight

GT-R V SPEC 1560kg Curb Weight

Hope that helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5348789
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...