Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt T Weight

mature gent
 Share

Recommended Posts

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
Hi Has anyone weighed there R34 GTT Coupe,The specs say 1410 kilo's.How close is this to reality.

Hi Steve,

good question, I'd be keen on getting a definitive answer as well (for an R34 GTT sedan).

Different sources have slightly different figures:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Skyline#R34

- 1410 kg (4-door sedan / 2-door coupe)

http://www.japanesesportcars.com/skyline/s...4_ggt_turbo.php

- 1490 kg (sedan) / 1340 kg (coupe)

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm

- 1410 kg (4 door sedan or 2 door coupe)

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...tcount839233944

- 2.5 25GT Turbo coupe 1430kg (4AT), 1410kg (5MT)

- 2.5 25GT Turbo sedan 1450kg (4AT), 1430kg (5MT)

The Performance Forums numbers seem pretty good, i.e.

- base weight 1410kg for R34 GTT coupe manual

- add 20kg for automatic transmission

- add 20kg for sedan

Can anyone confirm these please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5271922
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Always remember when reading weights off of the internet is that you don't know whether it includes all fluids, spare wheel and accessories and what factory options it may have (sunroof, dual airbags, ABS, etc.) as all the running fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant etc) in the vehicle can add 20-30kg. Than a full tank of fuel can add 50-70kg, suddenly you have a car that weighs 100kg more than what is written on the internet just in fluids.

I weighed my car (R33 GTST SII) on a weigh bridge with me in the car and half a tank of fuel and it was 1500kg. So take away my weight and the half a tank of fuel and your looking at around 1400kg with all running fluids (minus fuel) for my R33. My car has ABS, dual airbags and an A-LSD so has a lot of extra weight compared to a R33 without these things. Has a few things lighter than factory items and a few things removed, but it would probably be offseted from all the modifications added to it.

Vehicle weights are hard to get accurate unless weighing the particular car as some mods save weight (carbon panels, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust) and a lot of others add weight (coilovers, speakers, intercoolers, bodykits etc). So always use what you read as a guide and think about all the variables.

I would love a database on this website with a lot of items weighed accurately so people can add/subtract things to get a better idea of weights.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5275839
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
Always remember when reading weights off of the internet is that you don't know whether it includes all fluids, spare wheel and accessories and what factory options it may have (sunroof, dual airbags, ABS, etc.) as all the running fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, coolant etc) in the vehicle can add 20-30kg. Than a full tank of fuel can add 50-70kg, suddenly you have a car that weighs 100kg more than what is written on the internet just in fluids.

I weighed my car (R33 GTST SII) on a weigh bridge with me in the car and half a tank of fuel and it was 1500kg. So take away my weight and the half a tank of fuel and your looking at around 1400kg with all running fluids (minus fuel) for my R33. My car has ABS, dual airbags and an A-LSD so has a lot of extra weight compared to a R33 without these things. Has a few things lighter than factory items and a few things removed, but it would probably be offseted from all the modifications added to it.

Vehicle weights are hard to get accurate unless weighing the particular car as some mods save weight (carbon panels, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust) and a lot of others add weight (coilovers, speakers, intercoolers, bodykits etc). So always use what you read as a guide and think about all the variables.

I would love a database on this website with a lot of items weighed accurately so people can add/subtract things to get a better idea of weights.

but you will still get the problem of different scales having slightly different calibrations and margins of error.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5278214
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
99 GTT Rising Star

99 GTT

Posted
Posted

This is the weight as taken from the original Japanese owners manual converted to English. :(

2WD (Rear wheel Drive)

Vehicle Weight: RB25DET 1410kg RB25DE 1340kg RB20DE 1330kg

4WD

RB25DET 1450kg

GT-R 1540kg Curb Weight

GT-R V SPEC 1560kg Curb Weight

Hope that helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323320-r34-gt-t-weight/#findComment-5348789
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...