Jump to content
SAU Community

Cube wheel options  

60 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Ok, having been d1cked around by the importer of the wheels I'd originally picked, and having already bought a supercharger kit and factory optional overfenders for it, I've reached another roadblock with wheels. Let me start by saying wheels in the sizes I want are very very difficult to find, so options are fairly limited. Let me know what you think...

Choice one - Panasport F1

Pros: Panasport are extremely high quality wheels, and the Watanabe/Superlite style is always a winner on a Cube, 17x8s

Cons: Maybe a bit plain and safe choice for the car?

eikougarage2005-img600x450-1271822665tcmbqn39426.jpg

Choice two - Work Meister

Pros: They're Work Meisters, 'nuff said. White rims always look tough on a black car.

Cons: Only 17x7 but offset is still pretty good, maybe brakes will look too small with an open-spoke wheel

akeaketanno-img600x450-1231952064z6xcde71897.jpg

Choice three - SSR Mesh

Pros: Old school styles, but 17x7 makes them decent diameter too, if not width

Cons: Whether they'd suit the car hmmm, would need to be slammed to look good I reckon

khrin10271101-img600x450-1275435128ykj6xt9408.jpg

Choice four - Work Euroline/VIP style

(Yes I know these aren't Euroline, but you get the idea)

Pros: Would look pretty gangster given that the car is black

Cons: Wouldn't work so well with the overfenders or the supercharger in my opinion...

masatomo25-img600x450-127528384286l1zo4215.jpg

If you have any other suggestions, I'm all ears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323347-help-me-choose-wheels-for-the-cube/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

dont know what colour your car is but i could see these working on a white one

These were my very first choice, but having seen a few Cubes with 15s on since then, smaller diameters get lost in the huge wheelarches, and you'd need it about 30mm off the ground to make it look decent...

CSTs don't float my boat sorry...

Regarding offset, factory rims are 15x5.5 +48 or thereabouts, so for obvious reasons going below about +20 is gonna be risky, even with the overfenders. Kinda limits the dish factor.

These were my very first choice, but having seen a few Cubes with 15s on since then, smaller diameters get lost in the huge wheelarches, and you'd need it about 30mm off the ground to make it look decent...

CSTs don't float my boat sorry...

Regarding offset, factory rims are 15x5.5 +48 or thereabouts, so for obvious reasons going below about +20 is gonna be risky, even with the overfenders. Kinda limits the dish factor.

Imho the panasports would look the best on the cube... I like that style in general (really hate #4 lol)

-D

If those 4 are the only wheels you are considering then I would rank them like this:

Panasport F1

Work Meisters

---------------------------

Work Euroline/VIP style

---------------------------

SSR Mesh :D

Interesting Cronic.

My vote is the meisters, coz meisters make near on anything look f**king fabulous.

I agree.

the panasports look shit house, too race style which the car isnt.

out of the 4 it would be miesters or meshies but whats the overall style your going for?

The pics don't do them any favours but they're like a Watanabe-style rim - here's some 17s (but narrower than the ones I'm looking at) on a Jazz

fit.jpg

Lol Damo I was going to write something but then realized it had already been said.

P.S. nice Pube, Chef.

:D

If I hadn't already gone with [RUBIK] for a number plate, that nearly would've got a gong....

I really like the CE28N looking rims in the middle of the last set on Mukyboy's pics (the maroon car) .... or the Meisters - (possibly get them mirror polished all over) - would look tuff on a black Cube!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...