Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the car when it had 68,000km Fresh from japan, now its 116,000kms Ive also done the 100,000km Service, On top of all these mods bellow,

Type B Tomei adjustable Cams ( Cant remember the measurments, but they are lumpy on idling)

Tomei Dump pipes

Sard 720cc injectors

Sard intank fuel pump

PFC

Z32 AFMS

Air pods

Garret -5 turbos

Fuel Regulator

Greddy Boost Controller 2 profec B

Oil - Air seperator catch Can

Xtreme Single plate Heavy Duty Clutch

Os Giken 5 gear set

Alluminium intercooler/turbo piping

Oil cooler

Spitfire coils

3.5 inch exhaust

600hp rated Cat convertor

ALL INTERNALS ARE STOCK

Now long story short I got a tune done but little did the the tuner know there was a rip in one of the hoses this was before i got the piping done, So he set it to 15psi and the car was doing 316-320awkw, He pretty much tuned the car around the leak and everything looked fine, after i got the the pipiing done the car went quicker id say the boost went up automatically, must of been all that extra air going to through. Since then i have taken it to the tuner, his played alittle with the mixtures and so on but didnt touch the boost assuming its where he left it, he was pretty happy with everything, VERY little Knock. I checked the boost recently cause i found out how to and it peaked at around 21psi And now id say its 350awkw-360awkw.

Is this bad for the car? because its got stock internals how long roughly would will she last with all this beating last time i checked the compression was around 165psi on all cylinders. that was at the 100,000km mark.

Edited by GTRAAH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324144-is-this-bad-for-my-car/
Share on other sites

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

with a good tune there is no reason a street driven RB26 cant last a while @ 350rwkw

BUT

imho you should re dyno it and have the boost set where YOU are happy with and have the power level that YOU are happy and confident with.

edit: when this happened to me, we fixed the leak and my tuner didn't even finish 1 pass as he noticed the boost hit 26psi and was still climbing.

run was pulled and boost was re-set

make of that what you will :wacko:

Im definately happy with 21psi but i feel that it might climb alittle higher but nothing past 22psi id say. But if i set it to 21psi i want to keep it around 3-4 yrs before i do my Internals Etc So i want it too last for that long

Edited by GTRAAH

well im saying 3-4 yrs time i want to rebuild the insides i only drive this car maybe 2-3 times a week, Sorry i forgot to tell you all its not an everyday car as in im not boosting all the time PLUS its my weekend car, Does that change things? i want it to last 3-4 yrs healthy before an internal rebuild, And i have just talked to the tuner and he stated that it wasnt pinging or knocking on that PSI setting

Edited by GTRAAH

its hard to say what is safe amount of power as ppl with stock engines have had to rebuid as well.. generally accepted with more boost on stock internal GTR, its good to keep it around 300kw mark to "prolong" its life.. its no guarantee but perhaps better odds than pumping out another 30-50kw and placing more stress.. also if your tune is good and u look after it well, no reason it wont last the distance, but sometimes luck of the draw

Thanks BWRGTR, Is there anyway to keep an Eye out on the wear and tear?

Used oil analysis is the only way I know of. Basically, every oil change you send off a sample of the oil to a lab and they send you a report. Its been discussed here before so search if you're interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...