Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm interested to know what needs to be done to get an RB25DET to fit into an R32 GTS4.

the engine of choice will be out of a R33 GTSt, so far i know i need a custom sump made up.

is there anything else? engine mounts/g'box bell housings. I'm guessing it will need a new dump pipe from the turbo?

Also just out of curiosity, what are the features on a R32 GTS4 ie p/steering, p/mirrors, AC etc etc???

any help would be great on either topic.

thanks

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32490-rb25det-into-a-gts4/
Share on other sites

It would be easier to transplant an RB26 into that car - or find an RB25 out of a 4wd model. The bottom of the block is wider to accomodate the larger sump/front diff assembly - I think RIPS is making sandwich plates to adapt a RWD block to the 4WD sump. Other than that Nizpro are making those uber girdles - they might be able to accomodate a 4WD sump as well.

Exactly right. Another alternative is to rebuild your existing 4WD RB25DE block with the RB25DET pistons, or better still RB26 pistons, and add all the external bolt on turbo bits. There will be a cost saving, the motor will be fresh, and you get to keep the same engine number.

Warpspeed, he's talking about a R32 GTS4 (with the RB20DET engine), not a wannabe-a-GTR R33 GTS4 (with the RB25DE engine).

Now, down to business. Firstly, I'm totally confused by this transplant, which I have considered myself. Some people say 'just get a 25DET', others say the sumps are different.

The engine mounts are the same. I believe the 25 uses a bigger clutch assembly and the bell housing is larger to accommodate it, but the bolt pattern is the same as the RB20DET. And many people appear to be using RB20 g/boxes behind the RB25. The dump pipes are the same.

Features on the GTS4 are basically the same as a GTSt (P/Steer, P/mirrors, HICAS, A/C), ABS appears to be standard (optional on the GTSt), and of course ATTESSA 4WD system (as on its big brother, Godzilla).

I've been looking into this exact same mod and in my opinon you're better off doing up your original RB20DET if it's in decent condition, for the additional 10-20kw it is not worth an engine swap to an RB25DET. If your RB20DET is getting a bit long in the tooth go all the way, RB26DETT or bust.

Another alternative which is quite popular in Japan is to put an RB25DET Head on the RB20DET bottom end.

hey people, thanks for that info :) it's what i was looking for.

As for why the engine transplant, basically i feel the extra torque would come out though the added capacity with later mods in the planning. making the car more drivable

the only problem doing the RB26 conversion is that the engine is VERY expensive! :( and i think the difference in price could be spent on mods

thanks

Shane

You get a lot more than the quoted 10 to 20 Kw with a swap to the RB25DET. There is a huge difference in the low and midrange torque and therefor general drivability.

I have frequently swapped from Mick's R32 into my R33 and in situations where I just leave mine in 3rd or even 4th since adding the adjustable cam gear I have to go to 2nd in the R32 just to stop it bogging down

Interesting topic. I've just recently bought an R32 GTST but it has an RB25DET conversion (done in Oz). It also came with:

- Stage 2 GCG 450hp turbo (Steel Wheel, Hi-Flowed) (I'm not sure what the equivalency of these are to the jap name brand turbo's (anyone know?), or their range efficiency, as i am unfamiliar with GCG's)

- aftermarket front mount intercooler

- 2litre surge tank

- Bosch 450hp fuel pump

- Malpassi fuel pressure regulator

- Three inch exhaust off the turbo, stainless muffler

- Apexi air fuel controller

The actuator is set at around 10/11 pounds. With these mods my tuner reckons in the vicinity of 210-220 rwkw @ around 5000- 5500 rpm.

Of course going with these mods the additional extra's for stability & handling which also came with the car.

DBA gold slotted and drilled brakes all round

Daiken Exedy Heavy Duty Organic clutch

Bilstein suspension

In the R32 the RB25DET is a monster! It is heaps stronger with low down torque and peakier at high revs. So far the turbo is very much on the leash and with a boost controller and advanced timing, I reckon it would hit the peak of its efficiency. Atm the unit is missing its kick once past full boost and getting up into the higher rpm's.

Go with the 25DET as the RB26 is heaps more expensive and unless you have the dosh (then go for it!) could be a real headache to fix if you end up with a poor unit. Its way risky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...