Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've been told by quite a few people (including an import place) lately that I can polish the plastic headlight covers of my R34 with 'something' and they will come up good as new.

They have been slightly 'faded' with a smokey, scuffed look since I got the car from Japan. You can kind of see this in the attached photo.

Unfortunately no one has been able to tell me exactly what I should be using or how to do it.

Does anyone know more about this?

Cheers!

post-71984-1276581209_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324947-polishing-r34-headlight-covers/
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I've been told by quite a few people (including an import place) lately that I can polish the plastic headlight covers of my R34 with 'something' and they will come up good as new.

They have been slightly 'faded' with a smokey, scuffed look since I got the car from Japan. You can kind of see this in the attached photo.

Unfortunately no one has been able to tell me exactly what I should be using or how to do it.

Does anyone know more about this?

Cheers!

I used a product called glassylite to restore my headlights. It works exactly as they say in the instructions and comes with a sealant to help with oxidisation after you have cut them back.

Glassy Lite

i made an EPIC post here but my fucking cunting work computer owned me and deleted my post.

it had a lot of info here

short hand info.

the old wives tale of using cut compound to clean your lights is a very old addage and a BAD idea!!! cut compound is ROUGH and puts tiny scratches in your lenses. you scratch up your lenses,. you light goes EVERYwhere.

furthermore. cut compound is for CUTTING BACK AND REMOVING OLD PAINT. it has no UV protectant in it and little to no wax properties which the fragile perspex requires to be protected from UV rays. particularly australia's sun. which has bionic UV rays which tend to float around about the one billion UV rating. the australian sun is what yellows and corrodes your headlights in the first place. so they need to be protected.

SO DONT USE COMPOUND.

there. now that's sorted.

plastX has been around a few years. it has UV protectance in it which is a plus for "future" protecting. only do a small section at a time though. dont do all the headlight at once. or ninjas will kill your family and eat your KFC family box.

the LATEST product to hit the market here in AUS... is blue magic... australia currently is out of stock... so you might want to order it online..

.

bluemagic-headlamp-lens-restorer.jpg

the USA lexus guys SWEAR by it and say that it's yards better than plast-X. i would love to get some myself...

there is also a new ADR approved headlight tint (barely noticeable depending on which colour you get - ie: light blue is "barely there") the head light tint protects against ALL UV light and doesn't come off too easilly... it's been ADR approved to combat the aging headlight problems this country now has with many euro / american / japaense cars with plastic headlights and lazy owners who don't know to "maintain" their headlights.. (check out ANY chrysler neon)

google it to find an applicator near you... it's called crystallyte

most applicators will PROPERLY restore your headlight professionally and apply the tint for about 300AUD

(btw - crystallyte must be applied by an approved applicator for it to be ADR approved)

Edited by Mr Eps

meguires scratch-x and a woolen puffing pad on a drill. takes about 10 seconds per light (takes longer to get the drill, etc than to actually do the job). also doesn't matter if you get it on the paint since that's what it is actually designed for.

there is a DIY thread about using sandpaper to remove the yellowish, then polishing it back to new

Its what I did to my R33 cause it had the worst yellow fever lens's.

Wet and dry 1000,1200,1500,2000 grit, used as suggested.

Sanding horizotially and dropping through the grits till I hit 2000, plenty of water and the yellow fell off before my eyes...

Then I used Kitten liquid cut and polish polishing in small circles.

My lights look farking awesome again.

thanks to the thread from here.

Love this site

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...